Cookery Maven Blog

Cinco de Mayo Tamales

Pat and Ann agreed to share their tamale knowledge with us a week ago. Perfect timing because it was almost Cinco de Mayo and that means tequila. Gail brought some hibiscus syrup from Mexico and made the best margarita I have had (except Kathy's jalapeño margarita with the best salt I have put in my mouth, Tajin ). Tamales are little package of meat or vegetables, masa and cheese and there are quite a few steps to make sure those precious packages taste good. I took one look at the recipe and knew two things— 1) Pat and Ann did a lot of work before they set foot in the kitchen that night and 2) good food takes time.

I had my first tamale at El Burrito Mercado in West St Paul. I was about 15 months pregnant with Jack, big as a house and a little testy. Ted and his dad, Frank, thought Mexican food might encourage Jack to relocate. It didn't work, Jack decided to hang out for another week but my mood improved with each bite of tamale. It was after another lunch a week later with Ted and Frank at Pasquals in Uptown, I ate a bunch of jalapeño poppers, that Jack decided to become the first-born Dougherty. Needless to say, I have a special spot in my heart for Mexican food.

My favorite part of the evening is when we sit down at the table— kids drifting in and out, dogs circling hopefully and laughter filling the room. I can't think of anywhere I would rather be than in the company of these amazing women.

Tamales with Pork and Chicken

6 - 8 pounds pork shoulder

Large fryer chicken (about 5 pounds)

Salt and pepper to taste

Corn husks

Soak corn husks in warm water for about two hours.

Cut pork roast into fist size chunks, place in a pan and cover with water. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer and cook for about 2 1/2 hours or until very tender. Remove the meat from broth to cool. Once the meat is cool, shred it with your fingers and set aside. Save the broth, you will need it for the masa.

Cover the chicken with water in a large pot, Bring to a boil and then simmer for 2 hours or until the chicken is tender. Remove the chicken from the broth to cool. Remove and discard the skin, take the meat off the bones and shred into small pieces. Save the broth, you will need it for the masa.

1/2 cup corn oil

6 tbsp chili powder

3 tbsp garlic powder

1 tbsp black pepper

2 tbsp salt

Combine the pork and chicken in a large pan. Mix the oil and seasonings listed above in a small sauce pan and gently warm on stove top. Pour over meat and chicken and mix until thoroughly combined. At this point, the meat and broth can be refrigerated until ready to use.

2 pounds masa flour

3 tbsp paprika

3 tbsp salt

1 tbsp cumin seeds

3 tbsp chili powder

3 tbsp garlic powder

2 cups corn oil

Warm broth on stove top. Combine the masa, paprika, salt, cumin seeds, chili powder and garlic powder and then add the corn oil. Slowly begin to add 2 quarts of warm broth, about a cup at a time. Work with hands to make a dough with the consistency of thick peanut butter, add more masa or broth to achieve this consistency.

After the husks are soft, shake off excess water and lay on countertop on a damp towel. Pick up a husk, lay it across the palm of your hand with the small end towards your fingers. Scoop up about a 1/2 cup of masa with spatula and smear on husk. Cover the bottom and left 2/3 of corn husk with masa (this will make the folding easier). Add about 1 - 2 tbsp of meat on top of the masa. Starting from the left, roll tamale all the way to the right edge and then fold down the top of the husk. Tie a thin piece of corn husk around the tamale.

Bring a large pot of water with an insert set above the water line to boil. Stack tamales tightly on end, envelope end down, open end up in the insert. Cover pot and reduce heat to medium low and cook for at least two hours. Check water level often to make sure the pot does not boil dry. Let tamales set for 5 minutes, unwrap and eat. The tamales can be frozen after they have cooled.

A Taste Of Thailand From A Crock Pot

I was in dire need of inspiration for dinner. There were two pieces of frozen pork on the counter and I was fresh out of ideas. My newest cookbook, Hot Sour Salty Sweet, caught my eye. I wasn't in the mood to make a huge effort for dinner, just something simple in the crock pot. I had a lot of gardening to do and knew if I didn't get dinner started early in the day, the combination of hungry kids and a dirty Mom was a recipe for disaster. What if I braised pork in Thai peanut sauce in the crock pot?? Sounded easy and it gave me an excuse to make a Thai cucumber salad, one of my favorites.

Thai Cucumber Salad

2 cucumbers, peeled and diced

1/4 cup mint, chopped

1/4 cup cilantro. chopped

4 green onions, white and light green parts chopped

2 tsp jalapeño, diced

Dressing

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice

2 tbsp fish sauce, I prefer Squid brand

2 tbsp white sugar

Whisk lime juice, fish sauce and sugar together. Combine the cucumbers, onion, jalapeño, mint and cilantro in a bowl, add dressing and serve.

Thai Braised Pork

6 pounds of pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 4 - 5 inch pieces

3 tbsp oil

2 yellow onions, rough chopped

2 red peppers, seeded and rough chopped

1 cup natural peanut butter

2/3 cup soy sauce

4 tbsp chile garlic sauce

3 tbsp ginger, minced

2 - 4 tbsp red curry paste (depending on how hot you want the sauce)

3 tbsp rice vinegar

5 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 cup brown sugar

3 tbsp fish sauce

3 tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice

2 tbsp toasted sesame oil

6 tbsp water

Season the pork with salt and pepper. Add oil to sauté pan and brown pork on all sides. Remove pork from sauté pan and add to crock pot, along with the onions and red peppers. Combine all other ingredients in a food processor and process until it is a thick paste (add more water if it is too thick). Pour over pork and vegetables in crock pot and cook on high for 6 hours or low for 8 hours. Serve over jasmine rice with minced cilantro and mint, chopped peanuts, lime and green onions.

Tuna Salad With A Twist

I prefer tuna in olive oil and my favorite is Cento tuna. They use good quality olive oil and it has a mild salty taste. I used a three ounce can of tuna (do not drain), a handful of capers, chopped olives, a couple squeezes of fresh lemon juice, pecorino cheese and the last of the ramps. Mix it all together, put it on a pile of greens lightly dressed with lemon juice and olive oil and voila— a lovely lunch.

We Went Hiking Up A Hill

We went for a hike up Pratt's Peak. I heard it is the highest point in Northern Bayfield County— elevation 1426 feet. We parked off Happy Hollow Road and headed up a snowmobile trail. The kids enjoyed the mud.

I enjoyed the glimpses of vibrant color against the monochrome landscape of early spring.

There is a fork in the road and we chose to go left. It turned out to be a good choice, the trail began to climb through a forest filled with dead, standing birch trees. A birch fell about 5 feet in front of us as we were remarking about all the birch logs on the ground. I asked Will if a tree falls in the forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound? We decided, yes it does.

We got to the top and looked around, where was the lake? A lot of trees but no glistening blue water. Will climbed a tree to get a better view and reported that maybe we were on the wrong side. My orienteering skills are paltry at best but I know we went hiking up a hill. I heard there is a lake up there, maybe we will take a right at the fork in the road next time.

Cookies From My Childhood

I used to spend a lot of time at my Grandma Duffy's and she loved meringue in all shapes and sizes— pies, cookies, individual pavlovas. These chocolate chip meringue cookies were my all time favorite, although the pavlovas with strawberries were a close second. We went to her house for nearly every Sunday dinner. There was always dessert and when I walked into her kitchen and saw the sheet tray with meringues on top of the dishwasher, I was one happy little girl. My parents and grandparents would have dessert in the dining room and my sister Bridget and I would go into the den, watch Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom and eat our dessert on TV trays.

My Mom gave this recipe to Charlie last week. Considering how much I love these cookies, it is strange I have never made them. Meringue has always seemed way out of my league (I am not a good baker, remember?). I had egg whites sitting in the refrigerator (left over from the hollandaise) and this was my chance to have a little piece of Grandma Duffy in my kitchen. I just finished a book called The Kitchen Daughter by Jael McHenry and the main character,Ginny, is able to conjure spirits when she cooks from a recipe written in their hand. While Grandma Duffy did not appear, as I pulled the cookies out of the oven I was transported back to the her kitchen.

Chocolate Chip Meringue Cookies

4 egg whites 1/8 tsp cream of tartar 3/4 cup of white sugar 2 cups of corn flakes 1 cup of chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Beat egg whites and cream of tartar until it forms soft peaks and gradually add sugar. Continue to beat until shiny and holds stiff peaks. Fold in corn flakes and chocolate chips. Put spoonfuls meringue on a parchment lined sheet tray and bake for 15 minutes. Let cool on sheet tray to set and then move to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container.

A Gift Of Ramps

I had the most pleasant surprise a few days ago. My friend, Kathy, gave me a beautiful bunch of ramps fresh from her secret spot. I wanted to make something fantastic with them and what is more fantastic than eggs benedict with hollandaise? I sautéed spinach, ramps and shallots in olive oil (to compensate for the hollandaise), attempted to poach 2 eggs (6 eggs later, I had something that approximated poached eggs), sautéed pancetta and made the hollandaise. A lovely way to start the day.

Julia Child's Blender Hollandaise

3 egg yolks

1/4 teaspoon salt

Dash of cayenne pepper

1 stick butter, melted butter, heated until bubbling but not brown

1 - 2 tablespoons lemon juice

Place egg yolks, salt and cayenne in blender, blend for a few seconds at  high-speed until you have a smooth frothy mixture. Still at high-speed, start adding hot butter in a thin, steady stream, not too slowly. As you add butter,  the sauce should thicken. When half the butter has been added, add lemon juice. Continue blending until all butter is used.

 

There Is Theater In These Woods

We were on our way to Stagenorth to see Oklahoma! when we saw this bear about 4 blocks from the theater. A black bear sighting on the way to the theater— only in Northern Wisconsin.

Meghan is in the chorus with her best friend, Emily. This is her second performance and she loves it.

As I sat in the theater, I recognized so many of the faces— my kid's music teacher, Bill the wine guy, friends of Will and Sadie. What a treasure to have Stagenorth in Washburn, it truly is a community theater.

The talent in this area is astounding. My good friend, Liz, is the director. She has directed many productions at Stagenorth and her expertise is evident— Oklahoma! is a polished musical full of beautiful costumes, voices and characters.

Porchetta For A Pagan Dinner

The last Wednesday of every month is PDC (Pagan Dinner Club). I am game for anything that involves food, wine and conversation around a table. Plus, I have always felt a little pagan. Last November, I opened my issue of Bon Appetit and saw the sexiest piece of meat I have ever seen— Porchetta (take a look at the recipe and picture here).  For the past six months, that lovely piece of pork loin wrapped in pork belly would start calling my name but I never pulled the trigger. Until last Wednesday. It was my turn to host dinner and I knew exactly what to make, the porchetta of my dreams.  I followed the recipe to the letter except I used a full loin and pork belly and adjusted the spices and garlic accordingly. It was an extraordinary piece of meat— tender, flavorful and sexy.

What else does one serve with a massive amount of pork wrapped in luscious pork belly? Why, fingerling potatoes and sweet onions roasted in duck fat with pancetta and a Caesar salad (I forgot the anchovies) with croutons sautéed in olive oil and the drippings from the porchetta. Those croutons were a stroke of genius, one I intend to repeat over and over. I tossed the potatoes in duck fat and roasted them at 400 degrees for about 30 - 35 minutes on parchment paper. I laid pancetta on top about 10 minutes before they were done and crumbled it after I pulled them out of the oven. Duck fat is magic, the potatoes had the most delectable crust— amazing.

We drank a wine from the Piedmont, Cascina del Pozzo Lucrezia Barbera d'Alba. It was perfect with the pork— dry and elegant with subtle fruit notes. It was a little richer in body than other Barberas I have tasted and I really enjoyed it.

There are a few meals I have put together that stand out and this is definitely one of them. Not only was it a good meal, it was an even better evening filled with people I have come to adore. Jim Henson said, 'there's not a word yet, for old friends who've just met'. Ted and I are still new-comers to Bayfield, we have only been here for five years. As I looked around the table, I had a strong feeling that my fellow pagan dinner companions are indeed old friends we have just met.  I have been blessed many times over in my life with beautiful memories of children, family and friends around my table— it is no small thing to share a meal with those you love. I believe it creates a sacred space in our lives which is truly nourishing.

California Pinot Meets French Burgundy

Admittedly, I am a novice when it comes to wine knowledge. Everything I have learned has come from 'on the job' training, not that I am complaining. Drinking wine is hardly a chore. Pinot Noir is one of my favorite wines and I am always on the look out for a good bottle. The 2008 Talbott 'Sleepy Hollow' Pinot is a great bottle of wine, I mean it is a 'I am still thinking about it the next morning' bottle. Bob, my wine loving friend, was coming to dinner and I was excited to open a bottle and get his opinion. As it happened, he had a bottle of 2005 Andre Ziltener Burgundy in his hands when he walked in the kitchen. This was the perfect opportunity to taste a California Pinot against a French Burgundy.

The verdict? Talbott is a smooth, kind of flashy and relatively full-bodied Pinot— kind of like a really nice Lexus. The Andre Ziltener is a more nuanced Pinot with a depth and patina that reminded me of a classic old Mercedes in mint condition. The French have made wine for centuries and it makes sense I would taste the 'terrior' in the Ziltener wine. Maybe terrior tastes like a beautiful old Mercedes?? Regardless, I enjoyed both wines and hope to meet them again some day.

Sunday Photo Safari & Souffle

Sunday photo safari is becoming a regular thing. We grab our cameras, hop in the car and head out to parts unknown. Last week, we went down Star Route, took a right on a logging road and kept our eyes peeled for a place to stop. Adventures are a good way to stay connected— we talk about school, what pictures we want to take, if we should take George next time, where they want to go to college, what I am making for dinner. As they get older, I feel the quiet coming. I want to embrace the chaos, noise and beautiful mess with both arms while I still can. Photos give us instant access to moments in time and I am so thankful for these moments with my kids.

We were looking for an abandoned house or barn but settled for a bunch of rusty stuff in a field. We didn't run into any wild animals, snakes or hornet's nests— success as far as I am concerned.

When I told the kids I was making blue cheese souffle for dinner, I heard crickets. They had quesadillas and Ted and I ate souffle, it worked out well. It is the perfect dinner with a green salad, a baguette and good butter.

Ina Garten's Blue Cheese Souffle

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing the dish

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan, plus extra for sprinkling

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup scalded milk

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pinch cayenne pepper

Pinch nutmeg

4 extra-large egg yolks, at room temperature

3 ounces good blue cheese, chopped

5 extra-large egg whites, at room temperature

1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Butter the inside of an 8-cup souffle dish (7 1/2 inches in diameter and 3 1/4 inches deep) and sprinkle evenly with parmesan.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. With a wooden spoon, stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Off the heat, whisk in the hot milk, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, the cayenne, and nutmeg. Cook over low heat, whisking constantly, for 1 minute, until smooth and thick.

Off the heat, while still hot, whisk in the egg yolks, one at a time. Stir in the blue cheese and the 1/4 cup of Parmesan and transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Put the egg whites, cream of tartar, and a pinch of salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat on low speed for 1 minute, on medium speed for 1 minute, then finally on high speed until they form firm, glossy peaks.

Whisk 1/4 of the egg whites into the cheese sauce to lighten and then fold in the rest. Pour into the souffle dish, then smooth the top. Draw a large circle on top with the spatula to help the souffle rise evenly, and place in the middle of the oven. Turn the temperature down to 375 degrees F. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes (don't peek!) until puffed and brown. Serve immediately.

Homemade Mustard

I am a condiment hoarder, everything from Thai fish sauce to horseradish. While I don't discriminate and embrace all condiments, mustard has a special place in my heart and refrigerator. A few weeks ago, I started to wonder about making my own mustard. It turns out, it is amazingly simple— buy mustard seeds (yellow and brown), add liquid, some herbs or other flavorings, let it sit for a few days, put it in the blender (a food processor does not work) and you have fresh mustard.

I was at my favorite grocery store in Duluth, Mount Royal, and spied a pile of fresh horseradish. I knew my initial foray into mustard making was imminent. I grabbed some fresh herbs and pâté (my preferred mustard delivery system) and headed back to Bayfield. I looked at a number of different recipes and realized the room for creativity was immense. I settled on two mustards: fresh herb and garlic and horseradish and Calvados. I learned one interesting fact during my research— you must use cold liquid to preserve the pungency of the mustard seeds. If the seeds are heated, the flavor will be muted and less spicy. Homemade mustard was a revelation— spicy, creamy and fresh. I am afraid this may have opened a whole new avenue for my condiment fascination.

Horseradish and Calvados Mustard

6 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds

2 tablespoons brown mustard seeds

4 tablespoons Calvados brandy

5 tablespoons fresh horseradish, grated with a Microplane grater

2/3 cup white wine vinegar

1/3 cup water, cold

1/8 cup light brown sugar

1 teaspoon salt

Put mustard seeds, water, Calvados, horseradish and vinegar in a bowl and stir to completely submerge seeds. Cover and let sit at room temperature 2 to 3 days.

Whirl mustard mixture in a blender with brown sugar and salt until smooth.

Make ahead: 2 weeks, covered and chilled.

Fresh Herb and Garlic Mustard

6 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds

2 tablespoon brown mustard seeds

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme

2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary

3 cloves of garlic, minced

2/3 cup apple cider vinegar

2/3 cup water

1 teaspoon light brown sugar

3/4 teaspoon salt

Stir together mustard seeds, thyme, rosemary, garlic, water, and the vinegar in a bowl until seeds are submerged. Let sit at room temperature, covered, 2 to 3 days.

Put mustard mixture in a blender along with brown sugar and salt and blend until mixture is thick but still coarse-textured.

Make ahead: 2 weeks, covered and chilled.

A Proper Chicken Caesar Salad

I was curious if there were other mavens out there, did a quick google search and ran across the Food Maven last week. I spent a little while exploring his maven-ness (he has two kitchens). He had a recipe for Chicken à la King (my quintessential childhood meal) and Jamie Oliver's recipe for a Proper Chicken Caesar Salad. I am a big fan of anything proper and I needed an idea for Saturday night dinner— sounded like a plan. One of my favorite roasted chicken recipes is Ina Garten's Lemon Chicken with Croutons and this recipe is the salad version. The croutons are addictive, full of roasted chicken flavor and lemon. I made a few additions to the original recipe: roasted Roma tomatoes, preserved lemons, onion and lots more garlic in the dressing. Ted said it was the best salad I have ever made.  

Proper Chicken Caesar Salad (adapted from Jamie Oliver)

8 - 10 Roma tomatoes, halved and roasted

6 whole chicken thighs, skin on

1 loaf ciabatta bread, torn into thumb-sized pieces

3 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves picked and roughly chopped

1 whole preserved lemon, rinsed and chopped

1 whole sweet onion, chopped

Olive oil

Herb and garlic salt (recipe here) or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

12 thin slices pancetta

Dressing

4 cloves peeled garlic

6 anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained

7 ounces freshly grated Parmesan, plus a few shavings to serve

3 heaped tablespoon crème fraîche

2 lemon, juiced

Extra-virgin olive oil

2 or 3 heads romaine lettuce, outer leaves discarded

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Cut the tomatoes in half, drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast until brown and caramelized, about 30 - 45 minutes.

Place the torn up pieces of ciabatta, rosemary, preserved lemon and onion in a bowl. Drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper and place in a roasting pan. Place the chicken thighs on top of the bread mixture and season with salt and pepper. This way, the bread will soak up all the lovely juices from the chicken, giving you the best croutons! Pop the pan into the preheated oven.

After about 45 minutes the chicken should be nicely cooked. Take the pan out of the oven, drape the pancetta over the chicken and croutons, and put back for another 15 to 20 minutes for everything to crisp up. The chicken legs are ready when you can pinch the meat off the bone easily. When they're cooked, remove the pan from the oven and set it aside for the chicken to cool down slightly. If the croutons are not crisp, put them back in the oven for an additional 10 - 15 minutes.

Place the garlic, anchovy fillets, Parmesan, crème fraîche and lemon juice in a food processor or blender and pulse to combine. With the machine running, add 3 times as much extra virgin olive oil as lemon juice in a steady stream and process until thick and smooth. Season dressing with salt and pepper.

Pull the chicken meat off the leg bones - you can use 2 forks to do this, or your hands if you're tough like me - and tear it up roughly with the croutons and the bacon. Wash, spin dry and separate the romaine, tear them up and toss with the chicken, croutons, bacon and dressing. Scatter with some Parmesan shavings and roasted tomatoes.

The 2010 Talbott Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay was the perfect wine for this salad. In my experience, California chardonnay can be a mouthful of buttery oak. This wine shattered that preconceived notion. It is a rich, lush chardonnay with a long bright finish. Makes me want to have a proper caesar salad again soon!

An Ode To George

I was in Ironwood Michigan for a swim meet with the kids three years ago and I forgot to bring snacks. A trip to the grocery store was in order. As I headed into the Super One, a poster on the community message board caught my eye— three darling little labrador puppies. I exercised some restraint and walked into the store without the phone number. My restraint beat a hasty retreat in the granola bar aisle, I paid for my groceries and wrote down the number (just in case I needed a lab puppy). After consulting the kids, I decided I needed a puppy and made the phone call. I did not, however, call Ted. First rule of healthy marital relations— always consult Ted before procuring a puppy. It all worked out in the end and George is a stellar member of the Dougherty family.

Ten reasons why George is my favorite (don't tell the Cavaliers, thank God they can't read).

1. He has a big, blocky head.

2. He knows how to open large jars of peanut butter.

3. When you ask him if he is hungry, he runs to the garbage can.

4. He likes to ride shotgun, with the seat warmer on.

5. There are at least 100 tennis balls in my house and in the yard.

6. He knows how to source his own food in the kitchen.

7. He loves Will.

8. He likes to carry around my Tory Burch Reva flats in his mouth (I think he pretends they are a duck and he is a hunting dog).

9. The beach is his idea of Nirvana.

10. He thinks 'sit' means drop the ball (sometimes).

Cheesecake Nirvana

I am not much of a baker. I like recipes that are more of a suggestion with room for creativity. Baking requires paying attention to details and following directions— not my strongest suits. My Mom is a fantastic baker and excels at sugar cookies, cakes, cinnamon rolls and pies. If it involves flour, sugar and baking powder, she is the master. Clearly, baking skills are not genetic or they skip a generation. Either way, she is the baker in the family and I am the cooker. She sent up a couple dozen of peanut butter cookies a few weeks ago and we were so excited to have Nana's cookies in the house! George was pretty excited too, he ate all of them. I swear he has Special Ops skills when it comes to sourcing his own food.

I made my first cheesecake about 15 years ago for Easter dinner and I was scared. Scared of crevasses across the top and jiggling middles. I had experienced cheesecake nirvana at Cafe Latte many times before and was feeling a little uneasy with my skills. I settled on the recipe from the Joy Of Cooking and forged bravely ahead. Let's just say, at least it tasted good. I made a couple more attempts over the years but eventually decided to leave it to the professionals at Cafe Latte.

Fast forward 10 years, Cafe Latte is 250 miles from Bayfield, I had mascarpone in the refrigerator and I wanted cheesecake. I started my search from scratch for the perfect non-baker's cheesecake. Gourmet magazine had a recipe that fit the bill: vanilla wafer crust (no rolling-pin required), mascarpone and a sour cream topping to hide any and all crevasses. I made a few changes (I like to be creative) and voilà, cheesecake nirvana. I was distracted while baking the crust and it is a little darker than it should be. In the cooking world, we call that caramelized.

Crust 1 box of vanilla wafers, finely ground in a food processor 1 sticks  (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
Filling 3 packages of cream cheese, softened 8 oz mascarpone cheese at room temperature (about 1  cup) 3/4 cup sugar
3 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 tsp grated lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon salt
Topping 1 cup sour cream
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 tsp lemon oil
1/8 teaspoon salt
Make crust
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Butter bottom and  side of a 9-inch springform pan.

Stir together cookie crumbs and butter in a bowl. Reserve 1/4 cup crumb  mixture for sprinkling over cheesecake, then pat remainder onto bottom and 1 1/2  inches up side of springform pan (about 1 inch thick). Put pan in a shallow  baking pan and bake until golden, about 10 minutes. Cool completely on a rack,  about 25 minutes. Leave oven on.

Make filling while crust bakes

Beat cream cheese, mascarpone, and sugar in a large bowl with an electric  mixer at medium high speed until fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add eggs 1 at a time,  beating well after each addition. Add vanilla, lemon juice, lemon zest and salt and mix at low speed until combined. Pour into cooled crust and bake until cake is set and  puffed around edge but still trembles slightly when pan is shaken gently, 30 to 40 minutes. Cool slightly in springform pan on rack, about 20 minutes.  (Cheesecake will continue to set as it cools.) Leave oven  on.

Make topping:

Stir together sour cream, sugar, vanilla extract, lemon oil, and salt in a small  bowl and spoon over cheesecake, spreading gently and evenly, leaving a 1/4-inch  border around edge.

Bake cheesecake until topping is set, about 10 minutes. Run a thin knife  around edge to help prevent cracking. Sprinkle top with reserved crumbs and cool  completely in pan on rack, then chill, loosely covered, at least 8  hours.

 

Surrender

I took George to the beach yesterday. It was snowing sideways, the waves were hitting the beach hard and the wind was howling— savage beauty. George and I love the beach in all its incarnations: rain-soaked, shrouded in fog, bathed in sunlight or snowbound. I love the beach so much it makes me wax poetic. Seriously, walking the beach is my version of meditation and given the grey noise in my world, a little meditation is a good thing. In between wishing I had worn a hat and gloves, I was thinking about surrender and what it really means.

As I get older, I have begun to see the freedom of surrendering in my life. I have spent 42 years bound and determined to drive my bus whenever, wherever and however I want. It gets exhausting. My mantra lately is to allow space for change. The tricky part for me is realizing the change I am making space for may not be what I envisioned. As I was walking yesterday, I realized true surrender, not surrender on my terms, is trusting what's next is greater than anything I could have dreamt for myself. The beach is my cathedral, I would be lost without the cleansing power of wind and water.

I have walked by a large piece of driftwood on the beach countless times. Yesterday, something caught my eye and I stopped. There is a raven's head, clear as day, on one of the branches. As I stood there in amazement, I knew whatever lies ahead of me, the nurturing guidance of the natural and spiritual worlds is ever-present. On the way back to the car (I really should have worn a hat), I found a perfect dragonfly dusted with sand and snow. I picked it up and brought it home; I thought my warm kitchen might revive it. No such luck, it was a victim of the snow storm. I am going to save it with a note that says, 'surrender to mystery'.

My dear friend, Mindy, sent me C. P. Cavafy's poem, 'Ithaca', right before Good Thyme opened. We have been friends for 22 years and she knew exactly what to give me to mark the beginning of a life I had dreamed of. It eloquently reminds me to relish the journey.

Ithaca

As you set out for Ithaca
hope the voyage is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
angry Poseidon—don’t be afraid of them:
you’ll never find things like that on your way
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
wild Poseidon—you won’t encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of you.
 
Hope the voyage is a long one.
May there be many a summer morning when,
with what pleasure, what joy,
you come into harbors seen for the first time;
may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
to buy fine things,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
sensual perfume of every kind—
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
and may you visit many Egyptian cities
to gather stores of knowledge from their scholars.
 
Keep Ithaca always in your mind.
Arriving there is what you are destined for.
But do not hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you are old by the time you reach the island,
wealthy with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaca to make you rich.
 
Ithaca gave you the marvelous journey.
Without her you would not have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.
 
And if you find her poor, Ithaca won’t have fooled you.
Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
you will have understood by then what these Ithacas mean. 

C.P. Cavafy

What's For Dinner During An April Storm?

I have a problem. Most people, when they hear a storm is brewing, think about battening the hatches. I think about dinner. I have to admit, the impending snow storm wasn't too thrilling until I realized it meant I could make one more winter dinner. Roast chicken in the oven, fire in the wood stove and snow falling— perfection as far as I am concerned. There is not much to say about roasting a chicken except use good herb salt, butter the skin, stuff the cavity with lemon, garlic and fresh herbs and roast at 450 degrees on a bed of carrots, onion and potatoes.

I used to buy a lovely garlic herb salt at the Kitchen Window in Minneapolis. It was special because it was Italian and the fresh herbs and garlic were dried in the salt. Last year, I realized driving to Minneapolis for salt was excessive, Wisconsin is almost as cool as Italy and I had tons of fresh herbs from my garden. It is not much of a recipe, more of a suggested plan of attack. Put a couple of cups of coarse sea salt (not grey sea salt, too oily), a couple handfuls of fresh herbs (thyme, basil, rosemary, lemon thyme, sage, tarragon, whatever you have on hand), 1/4 cup fresh cracked black pepper and 5 or so cloves of fresh garlic in a food processor. Blend until the salt is finely ground and green. Spread the salt on a sheet tray and let dry overnight. Store in a covered container and use with wild abandon on anything and everything.

The Leeward Side

Although you wouldn't know it by looking out the window today, Saturday was a taste of summer in April. I haven't been to Madeline since last fall and a picnic on the beach sounded like a brilliant plan. We stopped at the IGA, grabbed chips, cheese, crackers and a trashy magazine (People magazine is a prerequisite for a Mary Dougherty beach day) and boarded the ferry. The wind was picking up and the ride was a little rough. Big Bay Town Park was on the leeward side of the island and I knew we were headed towards a stellar afternoon.

Charlie asked me how old he was the first time he went to Madeline Island. When I said, three weeks old, he had an incredulous look on his face. It wasn't as crazy as it sounds, it wasn't my first rodeo and Charlie was an easygoing baby. The Madeline Island 4th of July parade is a not to be missed event for the Dougherty's. A little thing like a newborn baby was not going to stop us from going to the parade and watching fireworks from the boat!

George was the only dog invited. Actually, he invited himself. He was running around the house with his Chuck-it and a terribly earnest expression on his face. He ran outside before anyone could catch him and hopped in the car. Fortunately, the Cavaliers don't share George's enthusiasm for the beach. I gave them a few treats and left them at home without too much guilt.

The kids wanted to check out the waves and I wanted to visit the LaPointe Indian cemetery. We had an hour to kill before our return ferry trip, just enough time to make everyone happy. The waves were impressive, the wind was howling and the cemetery was beautiful in its decay. Our afternoon felt like visiting an old friend, Madeline holds so many memories for all of us. Recounting our shared past experiences and planning our future visits to the pool, Grandpa Tony's or the Pub gives me a sense of place and immense gratitude for all we have been given.

Another Sunday, Another Waterfall

We have lived in Bayfield for four years and are still discovering the wild and untouched beauty of this place. My friend, Ellen, suggested an excursion to Lost Falls in Cornucopia. Spring walks appeal to me for a couple of reasons: no flying bugs, no vegetation to speak of which means no wild animals can jump out unexpectedly and eat me and waterfalls are glorious in the spring. The sight and sound of rushing water is an instant re-set button for my spirit.

I cherish our Sunday adventures. Taking a few hours away from cell phones, tv's and computers is a beautiful pause from the usual 'hurry scurry' cadence of our lives. As we walked through the woods, I felt a profound sense of gratitude. Gratitude for my beautiful family, the benevolent energy of the trees, the new life springing up all around us and the memories we are making. The Bayfield Peninsula is proving to be a remarkable backdrop for our family story.

Gina's Gnocchi

We renovated our kitchen a couple of years ago and it turns out— it the perfect space for gathering. It is full of friends, kids, dogs and endless piles of papers, jackets and shoes.  I met Ted when I was 18 years old. The beginning stage of any relationship involves a lot of questions and when Ted asked me where I saw myself twenty years on, I knew the answer straight away. I saw myself behind a center island in a kitchen filled with kids and dogs. It is humbling to realize my 18 year old self knew where I was headed long before I figured it out. The first time I stood in my kitchen with dogs at my feet and the kids bouncing off the walls , I realized that girl was right. I have had the good fortune to fall into the company of some extraordinary women who like to cook, eat and drink wine. When Julie asked me to host a cooking class for the Writer's Read Event at Stagenorth in February, I was game. It was a beautiful afternoon full of laughter and good food. I felt the ancient energy of a community prepared meal and I wanted to continue what Julie started. The best meals have a story and my friend, Gina, is a brilliant storyteller and gnocchi maker. She generously agreed to share the story of her Italian family from Pietra Colora, Italy and her recipe for potato gnocchi. We made gnocchi, tomato sauce, laughed, talked and shared a meal. It was a magical evening.

Gina's Gnocchi

3 cups riced dry baked potatoes

1 cup white flour

2 eggs

Add up to 1 cup of flour to the riced potatoes to achieve the proper consistency. The dough should hold together enough to roll out without cracking.

Roll to 1/2 inch thick on a tablecloth or pastry cloth. Roll up to keep from drying out. Cut into squares. Roll with fingers into tubes. Put into boiling water 5 to 10 minutes or until they float. Drain and serve immediately.