Cookery Maven Blog

Persimmon Bread Repurposed As Dog Treats

It was a good idea gone awry. I bought 4 persimmons at the grocery store because that deep orange color was a siren's song and I couldn't resist. I knew there were other orange fruits out there but there was something about that particular orange that grabbed me. I had one small problem— I had never cooked, cut into or eaten a persimmon. They sat on my counter for four days until I googled 'persimmon recipes' and found this James Beard recipe on David Lebovtiz's blog (recipe here). However, I made one game changing misstep— I forgot the baking soda.

I had hoped to impress two women with my persimmon bread— my Mom and Paula Deen. My Mom was coming up for the weekend and I thought a slice of a slighty exotic quick bread with her afternoon tea would be a lovely. As for Paula, I had planned to submit my blog as a contestant in her Deen Team blogger contest; as proof positive a woman from the northernmost (almost) tip of Wisconsin knew what to do with Southern fruit like a persimmon. Well, onto plan b, as in biscotti. Yet another game changing step— I forgot about the 'biscotti' in the oven and left to go to a six course dinner and wine tasting.

I got home at 10:30, walked into the kitchen and thought, 'gee, it smells so nice in here'. That lovely thought was quickly followed by, 'oh my god, I forgot the biscotti (aka quick bread gone awry) in the oven'. At that point, I started to reconsider my choice of blog post for Paula. Maybe I should showcase my low country shrimp boil, my love of butter, my nicoise salad in a jar on Long Island or the night I met Emmylou? Then I looked down at my feet, saw Seamus and thought, 'dog biscuits' and that was that. If Paula didn't like it, I knew four dogs who would be thrilled.

I owned a restaurant for four years and there is a common thread among people who cook for others. We know that food is so much more than sustenance— it's about nurturing, ritual, community and a pause in an otherwise noisy life. I moved to Bayfield five years ago to re-open Good Thyme Restaurant and I learned so much along the way. I learned living near one of the world's largest bodies of water is a blessing, community provides precious structure to my daily life, knowing where your food comes from is more important now than ever before and watching my kids set down roots in a place I hold dear means the world to me. As Gabrielle Hamilton said, in Bread, Bones & Butter, 'And that, just like that, is how a whole life can start'. My whole life takes place in a town of 490 people and the depth and breadth of every day's cadence is astounding. Hopefully, Paula will agree.

A Carnival, Parade & Pie

Every year, I have the same conversation with the kids. It goes something like this, 'can we go on the rides, play the carnie games, ride the Zipper?' My answer is always the same— 'absolutely not' but then I crumble like a shortbread cookie, hand over 50.00 to the ticket taker and the kids have a blast. At least I am consistent with my inconsistencies.

Applefest happens the first weekend in October and this little town of 400 people swells to what seems like 4 million. There are all sorts of delicious and unhealthy food choices (hand dipped corn dogs are a personal favorite), booths lining the streets selling everything from bed sheets to cranberries to handmade soap, an apple peeling contest (the winning peel was over 200 inches long) and there is a big parade. Bayfield is particularly well suited for a parade— Rittenhouse gently slopes towards the lake and is lined with picturesque storefronts. There is something about a high school marching band that makes me smile, especially when Will is marching along playing his saxophone.

What do you need the night before a big parade? Pie, of course. After all the nutritious cotton candy, mini doughnuts and corn dogs, we needed a pie with at least one redeeming nutritional component. We settled on banoffee pie— basically a banana cream pie with a few twists. Sadie and her friends assembled the pie while I was making dinner— too many cooks didn't spoil this pie, it was delicious. I made the dulce de leche earlier in the day (recipe here) and it was as easy at the recipe stated (in a crock pot, nonetheless).

Banoffee Pie (Adapted from Melskitchencafe.com)

Crust 36 chocolate sandwich cookies (like Oreos) 7 tbsp butter, melted

Pie 2 3/8 cups of dulce de leche 3 bananas 1 1/2 cup chocolate covered toffee bits (I used Heath) Bits) 1 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream 1/2 cup powdered sugar 12 ounces regular cream cheese, softened 1/2 cup brown sugar

Prepare Crust Add the cookies to a food processor and process until it resembles coarse meal. Put the Oreos in a bowl, add the melted butter and combine thoroughly. Press the mixture into the bottom and up the sides of a buttered 10 inch springform pan. Refrigerate or freeze until set.

Prepare Pie Spread the dulce de leche over the bottom and up the sides of the crust. In a medium bowl, combine the powdered sugar, brown sugar and cream cheese. Whip with a handheld or stand mixer until smooth and fluffy. Add heavy whipping cream on low-speed and mix until combined. Increase the mixer speed to medium and mix until the mixture is light and creamy and is the consistency of thick frosting.

Slice the bananas about 1/4 inch think and layer the slices over the dulce de leche. Sprinkle about 1/2 cup of the toffee bits over the bananas. Spread the whipped cream filling over the bananas and toffee, making sure to spread all the way to the edges of the pie. Sprinkle the top with the remaining toffee bits and chill for at least 2 hours and up to 8 hours before serving. This pie is best eaten the day its made, the bananas start to get mushy if it sits too long.

Will's Beefy Birthday Dinner

Will wanted stuffed tenderloin for his birthday dinner and I was happy to oblige. Stuffed tenderloin is easy to put together, can be made ahead of time and is out of this world delicious. It's more of an idea than a recipe— it changes based on what I have on hand and what sounds good. This birthday version had sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions, gorgonzola, spinach and a sherry glaze. I butterflied the tenderloin, stuffed it, tied it and liberally seasoned it with my herb salt and pepper. Roast it in a 300 degree oven for about 1 1/2 hours or until it reaches an internal temperature of 130 degrees. Let it rest for about 10 to 15 minutes, untie the beefy bundle and slice away.

Will and I discussed his birthday cake choice, my borderline baking skills and the fact he wanted something with apples. I remembered an apple cheesecake I used to make years ago and I had just re-purchased the cookbook that had the recipe (Just A Matter Of Thyme by Roxie Kelley). It was the perfect birthday cake for Will— a little crunchy and a little sweet.

Where should I start my Will story? From the beginning when he was a blond-haired, smiling boy who loved Thomas the Tank Engine and Legos? When riding the trolley at Lake Harriet was the highlight of his summer? When he crowned himself Nana's favorite because he had colic? When he assumed the Dougherty dog wrangler role and became George's best pal? Will is a bright, inquisitive, tender-hearted and wry young man.

It was one of my greatest gifts when he discovered his love of photography— the time we spend on photo safaris, discussing technique or having Will patiently explain white balance or spot metering (again) are some of my most treasured moments with him. I love that he still takes the dogs out with me, processes life with a mixture of wonder and skepticism, discusses esoteric topics like String Theory with confidence, reads the New Yorker and watches nearly every Discovery show ever made. Watching him grow into the man he will become gives me joy beyond measure.

Apple Strudel Cheese Pie (From Just a Matter of Thyme by Roxie Kelly)

Crust 2 cups graham cracker crumbs 1/2 cup melted butter 1/3 cup sugar

Pie 16 ounces cream cheese, softened 1/2 cup sugar 2 eggs 1 tsp vanilla 4 - 5 tart apples, peeled and sliced (toss apples in 1 tsp cinnamon and 1/4 cup sugar)

Topping 5 tbsp brown sugar 2 tbsp flour 2 tbsp butter, melted and cooled 1/2 tsp cinnamon

Prepare Crust Combine the graham crackers, butter and sugar and press into a 9 inch spring form pan. Bake in a 400 degree oven for 10 minutes. Let cool completely before filling.

Prepare Topping Combine brown sugar, flour, butter and cinnamon in a medium bowl.

Prepare Pie Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Blend the cream cheese, sugar, eggs and vanilla until smooth. Pour into the spring form pan. Top with the apple slices in a spiral pattern and then sprinkle with the topping. Bake at 450 degrees for 10 minutes and then reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue baking for an additional 30 minutes or until set. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving. 

Will's Birthday Lost Creek Walkabout

Will celebrated his fifteenth birthday on October 3rd and we headed out to Lost Creek Falls for a mid-week photo safari to mark his big day. I can't think of a better place to spend an afternoon, I was so excited to hit the road with the kids and hike out to the falls. It was a perfect fall afternoon— sunny, warm and the leaves were brilliant shades of red and yellow. Again, I was humbled by the mind-blowing beauty that surrounds us every day.

Meg was making chains with the leaves that were scattered everywhere you looked, she is a remarkably creative girl. We brought that particular specimen home. I saved it and will give it to her someday far in the future, when this walk is just a beautiful memory.

I had an incredibly hard time choosing pictures for this post, it was absolutely stunning that afternoon. Albert Camus said, 'autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower' and that certainly holds true up here. Autumn has always been my favorite season— I love the cooler temperatures, the viscous evening light, the sound of leaves crunching underfoot and the smell of wood smoke. I like the autumnal energy of endings— a bittersweet turning away and heading towards the quiet of winter.

I will never tire of walking in running water (in rain boots, of course). The feeling of the water rushing by reminds me that we all are on a journey towards our own big water and to savor the vistas and experiences along the way.

The leaves were strewn everywhere, the remnants of Nature's ticker tape parade.

I brought three maple leaves from my yard as an offering of gratitude for Will and the afternoon we spent exploring the forest, creek and falls. Spending a couple of hours taking pictures, building cairns and celebrating our lives among the pines, maples, oaks and waters of this area does more good for my spirit than anything I can imagine.

Charlie is learning how to use his camera and I love looking them over when we return home. It's clear after looking at his photos, he appreciates the nuance and small details of the natural world. I wonder if he knows when Nature reveals herself to us— in the light reflecting off a rock ledge, a lone red leaf in the stream or the dappled light through golden branches, we are in a state of grace. When I feel my spirit becoming ragged, I travel back to these afternoons at Lost Creek and feel my rough edges start to soften and my spirit restore itself.

Will, Charlie and Meghan built cairns in the basin, I think they were looking for a way to leave their mark and celebrate Will's birthday. I'd like to think the cairns were their way of making an offering of gratitude to the spectacular and nurturing energy that resides at Lost Creek. We all walked out of the forest feeling happy and sated by the dazzling light, water and leaves that enveloped us on Will's birthday.

Running at Telemark

I would be hard pressed to come up with a compelling reason to run anywhere. I guess any scenario that involves running for my life would qualify as compelling but thank God I haven't had to explore that scenario. Will is a great runner and runs many, many miles on purpose, in non life threatening situations and for his own personal enjoyment. He joined the cross-country team this year and had a great season.

This meet was at Telemark in Cable and in between shouting encouragement for Will and his teammates, I took a few pictures. The grounds were beautifully decayed, it must have been quite the place in its heyday.

Indian Meatballs & Curried Cauliflower

2012 will be the year of the meatball for the Doughertys and it started off with a bang. I saw 2 packages of ground lamb at the IGA (not an everyday occurrence up here) and I knew it was time to make a batch of Indian meatballs. Since I had never made a meatball in my life, I had some research in front of me. There are a lot of opinions about the 'perfect' meatball out there—everything from the meat ratio, kind of cheese, techniques for mixing and forming, ricotta or breadcrumbs....the list is endless. I knew I wanted my meatballs to have enough substance to hold together when fried but also have a meltingly tender texture. I forged ahead and cobbled a recipe and technique together from the 400 (give or take 350) websites I visited.

I had eaten koftas (the proper term for Indian meatballs) in restaurants before and knew a curry/tikki masala would be the perfect sauce for my little spherical bites of love. I needed a vegetable and the head of cauliflower in the fridge would be a tasty partner for my meatball masterpiece— curried cauliflower is super easy to make and is one of my favorite sides for an Indian meal. Naan would have been the pièce de résistance but I will have to save that learning curve for another day.

Curried Indian Meatballs

Meatballs 1 pound of ground beef chuck 1 pound of ground pork 1 pound of ground lamb 3/4 cup french bread crumbs 3/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated 6 tbsp tamarind pulp 3 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 inch piece of ginger, peeled and finely minced 3 tbsp dried oregano 1 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes 1 tbsp fenugreek 3 tsp kosher salt 3 eggs, beaten 1/3 cup cilantro, chopped 2 tbsp vegetable oil

Sauce 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion, minced 2 tbsp garlic, chopped 1 jalapeño, finely minced 2 bay leaves 1 tbsp dried oregano 3 1/2 tbsp curry powder salt and pepper, to taste 2 tbsp tomato paste 42 ounces of canned chopped tomatoes in purée 1 cup red wine

Make The Meatballs Combine the ground meat, bread crumbs, tamarind pulp, oregano, fenugreek, red pepper flakes, ginger, garlic, eggs, cilantro and salt and mic thoroughly. Don't get too aggressive with the mixture, mix with you hands until just combined— this will ensure you have a pillowly, tender texture. Form the mixture into 2 inch meatballs and set aside. Heat the oil in a large non stick sauté pan over medium high heat. Fry the meatballs in all sides until browned and then reduce the heat to low and continue to cook until cooked thorough. Keep the meatballs warm.

Make The Sauce In the sauté pan you fried the meatballs, sauté the onion, garlic and jalapeño until softened. Add the bay leaves, oregano, curry powder, salt and pepper and sauté for about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste and red wine and simmer for about 20 minutes. Stir in cilantro and add the meatballs to the sauce. Serve with jasmine rice. 

Curried Cauliflower & Sweet Potatoes

2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion, chopped 1 tbsp fresh ginger, grated 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp salt 1/2 cup currants 1 cup chopped tomatoes (I used canned tomatoes in purée) 1 cup coconut milk 2 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 inch chunks 1 head of cauliflower, cut into bite size pieces 1/3 cup cilantro, chopped

Place the oil in a large sauté pan and heat over medium high heat. Add the onion and ginger and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cumin seeds, turmeric and salt and cook for about 30 seconds. Add the sweet potatoes, tomatoes and currants and cook until tender, about 12 - 15 minutes. Add the cauliflower and stir to combine. Cover the pan and cook for 5 - 8 minutes. Garnish with cilantro and serve immediately. 

Hubbard Squash Love

Is it possible to fall in love with a squash? I'm here to not only to say it's possible, it happened to me. I was at the farmers market and spied this beautiful Hubbard in the back of a pick up and felt my heart skip a beat. That 15 pound hulking, greyish blue squash was coming home with me and I was going to stuff it with everything good.

Dorie Greenspan's cookbook Around My French Table is in heavy rotation in my kitchen. It has everything from chicken b'stilla to Pierre Herme's olive sables to a pumpkin stuffed with everything good. Last winter, I was stuffing every squash or pumpkin I got my hands on but I never had a crack at a big, gnarly hubbard until I met this bad boy. It was as magnificent as I hoped. I went back the following Saturday and picked up this squash's little brother. I had an unfortunate incident with my stuffed squash at last year's Thanksgiving (I dropped it on the floor) and I plan on redeeming myself this year.

My version of everything good included italian sausage, caramelized onion, white wine, dried cranberries, wild rice and a variety of fresh herbs (rosemary, oregano and thyme). The only trick I've found with this recipe is managing the water content of the squash and the amount of cream and wine you add to the stuffing. If the squash has a higher water content, make your stuffing a little drier and vice versa.  This hubbard squash was pretty dry so I made sure the stuffing was nice and saturated with my cream and wine sauce.

Squash Stuffed With Everything I Think Is Good (adapted from Dorie Greenspan's Around My French Table)

1 pumpkin or squash, about 3 to 5 pounds 1/4 pound stale bread, cut into 1/2 inch chunks 1 cup wild rice, cooked 1/4 pound gruyère, shredded 1/4 pound parmesan, shredded 4 cloves of garlic, chopped 1/2 cup caramelized onion, chopped 1/2 cup celery, chopped 1 cup italian sausage, cooked and crumbled 1/4 cup dried cranberries 1/4 cup of fresh herbs, chopped 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/4 cup white wine salt and pepper freshly grated nutmeg

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Using a very sturdy knife, carefully cut a nice sized cap off the top of the pumpkin.   Clear away any seeds and strings from the cap and hold it aside while you scoop out the seeds and filaments inside the pumpkin.

Combine the cream, white wine and garlic in a saucepan and simmer over medium low heat for about 10 minutes.

Toss the bread, cheese, wild rice, dried cranberries, celery, caramelized onions and herbs together in a bowl, then pack it into the pumpkin. The filling should go into the pumpkin and fill it well.  You might have a little too much filling or you might need to add to it -- it's hard to give exact amounts.  Season the cream/wine mixture with salt, pepper and several gratings of fresh nutmeg and pour the cream into the pumpkin.  Again, you might have too much or too little.  You don't want the ingredients to swim in cream, but you do want to get a feeling that they're moistened.

Put the cap back in place and bake the pumpkin for about 2 hours -- check after 90 minutes -- or until everything inside the pumpkin is bubbly and the flesh of the pumpkin is tender enough to be pierced easily with the tip of a knife.  Remove the cap during the last 20 minutes or so of baking so that the top could brown.

Mister Loki Goes To Bayfield

It's always best to start every story at the beginning, even if there is a cute puppy at the end. I met Jeannie, Eric and Dakota right after Meg was born. My Friday nights would start with a stroll down D dock, while simultaneously trying to navigate the dock cart, make sure no one fell in the water and attempt to keep Guinness from leaping off the dock for a swim. In the midst of all my chaos, I saw Jeannie waiting on the gas dock with her very well-behaved Golden, Dakota. Eric pulled up in their Whaler and they took off for parts unknown. It seemed so civilized and glamorous compared to the traveling circus I was trying to manage. This tableau played out for a couple of months and finally, Jeannie and I had a chance to talk (I think Guinness got off his lead and ran over to see Dakota). That was the beginning of a beautiful and treasured friendship.

Dakota lived a good, long life and walked on when he was 17 years old. Loki has big shoes to fill but after spending a couple of hours with him, he's going to do just fine. Jeannie and Eric had kept us up to date with Loki's (formerly known as Mr Teal) journey to Wisconsin and we were anxiously awaiting his Bayfield début on Saturday. We all got up, got dressed and walked downtown on Saturday morning with George to meet Bayfield's newest canine resident. George was brilliantly behaved and made all sorts of good choices with his newest friend.

As I'm sure you've figured out, I am a big fan of dogs. I literally can't imagine my life without at least one or two (or five) dogs following me around. Given the choice between a dinner at Neptune Oyster in Boston or a European Golden Retriever puppy— I'd take the puppy every time. Since the family consensus is we are maxed out on dogs, it was pure bliss to have Loki around. He's going to have an amazing life— full of beaches and islands, scones from Big Water, dinner on the patio at the Pub and play dates with Uncle George. What a lucky little boy.

Photo Safari With Gen's Horses

I think I could turn and live with the animals,  they are so placid and self contained; I stand and look at them long and long. They do not sweat and whine about their condition; They do not lie awake in the dark and weep for their sins; They do not make me sick discussing their duty to God; Not one is dissatisfied, not one is demented with the mania of owning things; Not one kneels to another, nor his kind that lived thousands of years ago; Not one is responsible or unhappy over the whole earth.

Walt Whitman, Leaves of Grass

Poblano & Tomatillo Shredded Pork With Cheddar Grits

Ellen sent an email asking if I would like some poblanos from her garden. I immediately thought of chile rellenos  and answered with an enthusiastic yes, please. Don't ask me why chile rellenos were the first thing I thought of, I've never eaten or made them. But, what isn't to love about deep-fried cheese stuffed peppers? All I needed was a couple of hours to get them together.

Dinner has been anything but leisurely around here lately. I remember when the kids were little, 5 pm to 7 pm was nightmarish with crabby kids rioting while I was trying to prepare dinner. Fast forward 12 years and 5 to 7 is still the witching hour. No crabby kids this time, just various drop off/pick up assignments for four kids in three different sports. Dinner needs to be quick and ready when they get home or they may revert to their younger, riotous selves. So, I'm still a chile relleno virgin but the poblanos found another incarnation in the crock pot.

I became a relatively proficient crock pot cooker when we were renovating our kitchen in 2010. I didn't have a stove for 2 months but still had 5 kids who wanted to eat— necessity is also the mother of crock pot cookery. I learned a couple of things— always brown the meat, saute the aromatics (like onions, garlic, peppers) and don't add too much liquid (like wine, broth, tomatoes).  Boston butt pork roast is my favorite for braising— full of piggy flavor and incredibly tender. Since the poblanos were driving the bus for this meal, I grabbed the tomatillos from the fridge and set out to make a south of the border braise.

Poblano & Tomatillo Pork with Cheddar Grits

Pork Braise 4 - 5 pound boston butt pork shoulder 3 tbsp olive or canola oil 3 medium onions, chopped 4 garlic cloves, minced 2 pounds fresh tomatillos or two 11 ounce cans of tomatillos 6 poblanos, chopped with seeds 3 tbsp cumin 1 1/2 tbsp Tajin Classico Seasoning 2 tbsp chipotle powder 2 tbsp ancho chile powder 1/2 tsp salt 3/4 cup cilantro, chopped

Cheddar Grits 2 1/2 tbsp butter 1/2 onion, chopped 1 1/4 cup grits (I used Quaker Quick Grits) 2 cup whole milk 2 3/4 cup water 1 1/2 cup shredded sharp white cheddar Salt and pepper to taste

Pork Season the pork shoulder with salt and pepper and brown all sides in 1 tbsp of oil over medium high heat. Place in crock pot. Add additional 2 tbsp of oil to sauté pan, add onions, garlic and poblanos and sauté for 7 - 10 minutes or until soft and onions are golden. Add tomatillos, cumin, Tajin, chipotle powder, ancho powder and salt and saute for another two or three minutes. Very carefully, add the tomatillo/pepper/onion mixture to a blender or food processor and purée until smooth. Pour over the pork in the crock pot and cook on high for 6 hours. Before serving, shred the pork, add the cilantro and serve over cheddar grits.

Cheddar Grits Saute onion in 2 tbsp of butter over medium heat in a large saucepan until softened and golden. Add the water and milk and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium low and slowly add the grits, stirring to combine. Cover and cook 12 - 14 minutes or until thickened. Add the shredded cheese and continue cooking until the cheese is melted, about another 2 to 3 minutes. Taste for seasoning and serve immediately.

Morning In The Garden

It's been a marvelously rainy and foggy day. As I was walking outside, I noticed the colors were muted and much more monochromatic— winter is coming with her shades of white and gray. The garden still has a few stalwart and vibrant holdouts but it won't be long before I cut everything down and put the garden to bed.

I took these pictures in the beginning of October at sunrise. Between the kids and dogs, I've honed my 'early bird gets the worm' skills and catch my fair share of glorious sunrises (a decent consolation prize for leaving my warm bed). The garden looked so lovely on that October morning, lush and colorful in spite of the fact that in a few short weeks it would be a pale imitation of its summer splendor.

'Everyone must leave something behind when he dies, my grandfather said. A child or a book or a painting or a wall built or a pair of shoes made. Or a garden planted. Something your hand touched some way so your soul has somewhere to go when you die, and when people look at that tree or that flower you planted, you're there.' Ray Bradbury, Fahrenheit 451

Everything Is Better With Butter, Right??

I had a moment when I was in Cable at the Ideal Market last Thursday and it involved a pound of pale yellow goodness. I have a deep and abiding love of good butter— especially La Baratte des Gourmets (French butter with sea salt flakes) and Delitia Burro di Parma (butter made with the left overs of Parmigiano Reggiano production). It's not that your average, run of the mill grocery store butter isn't good, it's just that high fat cultured butter is so much better.

The girls and I drove to Cable to have dinner at the River Eatery with Will's cross-country team. As we were leaving, I peeked in the refrigerated case and there it was— handrolled butter from Farmhouse Kitchens in Lacrosse. It's light and creamy texture as well as a tangy, cultured flavor adds up to pure butter love. I bought 3 pounds and headed north with a smile on my face.

Roasted Beet & Caramelized Pear Salad

I need a few things to make my life run smoothly: ample toilet paper reserves, Maldon sea salt, good butter, clean dogs and a really good salad dressing in the fridge. Salad dressing is always an after thought for me. I will spend hours planning and preparing the meal but when it comes time to dress the salad, I've got nothing. While a good red wine vinegar and Dijon dressing is quick and easy, it's been five years and I needed a change.

I have two 'signature' perfumes— Tom Ford's White Patchouli for summer and Black Orchid for winter. Doesn't it make sense to have two 'signature' seasonal salad dressings?? Summer with her fresh vegetables and bright flavors is a whole different kind of critter than the caramelized fruit and roasted vegetable salads of old man winter. I pulled a bunch of cookbooks off the shelf and started my search for a Dougherty house dressing. I hit pay dirt with Cooking with Shelburne Farm— a beautiful cookbook from an Inn and working farm in Vermont. The maple ginger vinaigrette is perfect for all my winter salads and is always waiting in the refrigerator to dress any salad I can dream up.

Roasted Beet and Caramelized Pear Salad Maple-Ginger Vinaigrette Salad Dressing (From Cooking with Shelburne Farms)

Salad 2 heads of lettuce, washed and torn into bite size pieces 4 sliced pears, caramelized in 4 tbsp butter and 2 tbsp brown sugar 6 roasted beets, sliced 1/2 cup gorgonzola, crumbled

Salad Dressing 1 medium garlic clove 1 medium shallot 1 inch ginger root, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 tbsp Dijon mustard 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp pure maple syrup 3 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 cup canola oil kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Prepare Salad Dressing In a blender or food processor, combine the garlic, shallot, ginger, mustard, soy sauce, maple syrup and balsamic vinegar until well blended. With the motor running on low, pour the olive and canola oils gradually and blend until emulsified. Can be refrigerated for up to a week.

Prepare Salad Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Remove the greens from the top of the beets, wash, drizzle with olive oil and tightly cover your pan with foil. Roast until soft— about 30 minutes for small beets and up to an hour for large ones. Peel the skin off, slice and set aside.

Melt 4 tbsp of butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Once the butter starts to foam, add sugar, stir until sugar is melted. Add sliced pears and saute for  5 - 7 minutes, flipping over one or twice to achieve uniform caramelization.

Add sliced beets, pears, gorgonzola to the bowl with the lettuce, add dressing, taste for salt and pepper and serve.

Springs Of The Sioux

Julie, Charly and an assortment of children joined us for our photo safari a few weeks ago. They showed us the way to the springs of the Sioux River and now I have another place to add my 'favorite places on Earth' list.

Standing at the springs, I felt a deep sense of gratitude and said a prayer of thanksgiving. Thanks for being near water flowing from deep in the earth, seeing the kids develop their own relationship with the natural world, dear friends to share these special places with and the generous spirit of the trees watching over us.

Alice's Goat Cheese Souffle

Every other Friday I stop by Pinehurst, look for the cooler by the side door and pick up a couple of containers of fresh Sassy Nanny goat cheese from Michael. It even has my name on the tasty little packages. Yet another reason I love living in Bayfield— bespoke cheese. When I went to visit Michael last March (link here), I was in awe of the sheer amount of work that goes into a pound of cheese. It's truly a labor of love (or some other kind of madness) and the cheese that is waiting for me in the cooler is some of the best goat cheese I've eaten. Michael's goat cheese and Jennifer's eggs— a perfect match and a perfect Sunday brunch.

Goat Cheese Souffle (From Alice Water's The Art Of Simple Food)

6 tbsp butter (5 tbsp for souffle & 1 tbsp to butter souffle dish) 3 tbsp flour 1 cup milk salt & freshly ground pepper pinch of cayenne 1 thyme sprig, leaves only 4 eggs, separated 4 ounces goat cheese 1/4 cup parmesan, grated

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 1 quart souffle dish and then coat the sides with the parmesan cheese.

Melt 5 tbsp of butter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Stir in flour and cook for 2 minutes. Whisk in, little by little, the milk making sure to whisk thoroughly between each addition. Season the bechamel with salt, pepper, cayenne and thyme and cook over low heat for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly. Stir the yolks into the bechamel and then add the goat cheese, stir to combine.

Whip the egg whites into moist firm peaks. Stir one-third of the whites into the souffle base. Then gently fold the base into the rest of the egg whites, taking care not to deflate them. Pour the mixture into the buttered dish and bake for 35 - 40 minutes, or until puffed and golden, but still soft in the center and jiggly when shaken gently. Serve immediately.

In Blackwater Woods

In Blackwater Woods Mary Oliver

Look, the trees are turning their own bodies into pillars

of light, are giving off the rich fragrance of cinnamon and fulfillment,

the long tapers of cattails are bursting and floating away over the blue shoulders

of the ponds, and every pond, no matter what its name is, is

nameless now. Every year everything I have ever learned

in my lifetime leads back to this: the fires and the black river of loss whose other side

is salvation, whose meaning none of us will ever know. To live in this world

you must be able to do three things: to love what is mortal; to hold it

against your bones knowing your own life depends on it; and, when the time comes to let it go, to let it go.

Little Sioux Redux

The last photo safari of September was a mixed bag. We went back to the Little Sioux and walked the other way (I think it was upstream but orienteering  is not my strong suit so who knows which way we went). Anyways, it was not the best adventure we have ever had— Sadie fell and filled her boots with cold stream water, George did not have his listening ears on and after the first 100 feet, we were bushwhacking our way along the stream bed. The good news is we made it back to the car without too much trauma and Meg found some wet, slimy clay to bring back to the house. Not too shabby for an afternoon in the woods.

A Tale Of Three Cavaliers & One Carcass

Thought I would post a couple of pictures of the clean and shiny Cavaliers. Yesterday we had a little incident— Gus decided it would be a good idea to roll around in the yard with a dead mouse. Since I wasn't sure if Seamus or Henry were participants in the carcass fun, everyone had a little spa day. Goodbye smelly, feral dogs and welcome back my little Lord Fauntleroys.

When The Moon Hits Your Eye Like A Big Pasta Pie....

Pasta, in any shape or form, typically generates rave reviews from my in-house food critics. When I saw this recipe from Noble Pig, I suspected I was headed for a standing ovation at the dinner table. I wasn't the kind of Mom who made my kids eat what was served; I have a pathological fear of hungry, sad children (food is love, right??) There were many meals where Ted and I ate something fantastic and the kids ate buttered noodles or spicy chicken (chicken breasts sautéed with Montreal Steak seasoning). Fast forward ten years and we all eat something fantastic or at least more interesting than buttered noodles. This pasta pie was a nod to those days of short order cooking for my little ones and wondering if they would ever eat anything other than pasta and chicken.

I bought a tubular pasta called paccheri and figured I could substitute it for the rigatoni. Not the best idea, paccheri is floppy and did not want to stand up and be stuffed without quite a bit of management on my part. Next time, I am using rigatoni. Carmelina tomatoes are the way to go for marinara—they have a beautiful thick purée and make the best sauce. I'm a firm believer in homemade marinara— it tastes better, is easy to throw together and it is less expensive.

I had a few doubts after I assembled the pie, those floppy paccheri pasta noodles bore a striking resemblance to the Leaning Tower of Pisa. My fears weren't completely unfounded, it held its shape (kind of) but definitely was leaning and spilling out of the spring form after I unmolded it. It tasted great, is easy to put together, aside from the fussiness factor of assembling the noodles in the pan, and definitely will have a place in our dinner rotation.

Marinara Sauce

2 28 ounce cans of chopped tomatoes 1 red onion, chopped 2 red or yellow peppers, chopped 4 cloves of garlic, chopped 8 - 10 leaves of fresh basil, chopped 8 - 10 leaves of fresh oregano, chopped 1 tsp kosher salt 1/2 tsp coarse pepper 1 tsp sugar 3 tbsp olive oil

Heat oil in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add onion; sauté until tender,  about 10 minutes. Add garlic; sauté 1 minute. Add peppers; sauté until peppers just begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes and their juices. Cover and simmer 15 minutes. Add sugar, basil and oregano. Cover and cook 15 minutes. Uncover and simmer until  slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Olive & Tomato Focaccia

The smell of a freshly baked loaf of bread makes me happy. In fact, the entire process of bread making gives me joy— the smell of yeast, the sound of the mixer kneading the bread and watching the texture change as it begins to rise. It's magical— a pile of wet, sticky flour morphs into a loaf of focaccia, boule or baguette. Who couldn't use a little magic in their lives?

I used the olive oil dough recipe from Jeff Hertzberg's and Zoe Francois' cookbook Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day for my focaccia. It's a solid recipe and never, ever fails me. If I want to have a couple of loaves of focaccia for dinner, I start the dough at noon and it's ready to hit the oven at 6 pm. I know you are probably thinking, dinner at 6 at Mary's, yeah right. It's true (most of the time), I make a very earnest effort to eat before 8 pm during the school week— figure it will help with my mother of the year application. I settled on Nancy Silverton's baking method for the focaccia, it produces an amazing crust— crispy and golden brown.

Olive & Sun-dried Tomato Olive Oil Dough (Adapted from Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day)

2 3/4 cups lukewarm water 1 1/2 tbsp granulated yeast (I use SAF red instant yeast) 1 1/2 tbsp kosher salt 1 tbsp raw sugar 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil (1/4 cup for the dough & 1/2 cup for the pans) 1/2 cup kalamata or oil cured olives, chopped 1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil, chopped 6 3/4 cup bread flour (I use Honeyville Alta Artisan Unbleached Flour) Coarse sea salt and chopped fresh herbs (I used rosemary, thyme and oregano)

Mix the yeast, salt, sugar, olive oil with the water in a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. Add the flour and mix until it comes together(about 3 minutes) using the dough hook (if using a stand mixer) or a spoon. Cover (not airtight) and allow to rest at room temperature until the dough doubles in volume (about 2 hours).

Dust the work surface lightly with flour and turn the dough out onto the floured surface. Add the chopped olives and sun-dried tomatoes to the dough— knead them in the dough as best you can.  Acting as if the round has four sides, fold the edges of the dough toward the center. Turn the dough over and return it, folded side down, to the bowl. Cover the bowl again and set it aside at room temperature until it has doubled in volume, 50 minutes to 1 hour. (The dough will be puffy and will feel alive, springy and resistant. It will not collapse under the touch of your fingertips.)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Pour ¼ cup olive oil into each of the cake pans, and tilt the pans so the oil coats the bottom evenly. Dust the work surface again lightly with flour and carefully turn the dough out onto the floured surface, taking care not to deflate the dough in the process. Divide the dough into two equal segments. Place the dough segments in the prepared cake pans and very gently pull the edges just to obtain a roughly round shape. Cover the pans with a clean dishcloth and set aside at room temperature until relaxed and spread to cover about half of the surface of the pans, about 30 minutes.

Brush the top of the focaccia with olive oil, sprinkle with the sea salt, chopped fresh herbs and bake it on the center rake of the oven for 30 to 40 minutes until it is crisp and golden brown.

Move the pan to the bottom rack of the oven and bake 5 more minutes to make sure the bottom crust of the focaccia is nice and crispy. Remove the focaccia from the pan being careful not to burn yourself from oil remaining at the bottom of the pan. Set them on a cookie rack.