Cookery Maven Blog

Oh, What A Night

It started with pâté and a trio of Sassy Nanny cheese, went straight into turkey and then ended up with pie. All in all, a perfect Thanksgiving. In between all the food and wine, there were my beautiful nieces and nephews (and one pug named Homer with a stylish Christmas sweater). I think at last count, there were 24 people at dinner. As I looked around, I felt the blessings of a large family who genuinely love each other. This year was pretty tame compared to last year's dance party in the living room to Meatloaf's Paradise By The Dashboard Lights (requested by the matriarch of this clan, Nana).

Nana bought a tablecloth for the kitchen table that the kids could illustrate— it was a big hit.

Cate was contemplating her next move.

Emma— possibly the sweetest and most loving little girl I have ever met.

The turkey spoon that has scooped and the dish that has held the stuffing for as long as I can remember. Katie made the green bean casserole with fresh green beans, a definite improvement over frozen beans. And really, those Durkee french onions aren't that bad— they have crunchy and salty on their side.

Yup, that's a Jeroboam of 2008 Cline Ancient Vine Zinfandel behind Eleanor, we had lots of glasses to fill.

It's hard to take a bad picture of Jimmy, he is joy personified.

Sadie and Nana were discussing the finer points of properly whipped cream.

Homer says, 'On to Christmas, I already have my outfit picked out.'

Monte's Ham & Dijon Roasted Potatoes

I once told my friend, Tammy, as we were putting in the garden at my house— 'hostas are the ham of the garden world. They're not fussy, are a crowd pleaser and deliver every time'. Hostas and ham, who knew? We all need a couple things in our lives that require very little intervention and feed a crowd or fill a shady garden. I had seen Monte's ham recipe in a number of magazines but the preface to the recipe in The 150 Best American Recipes sealed the deal, "Watching the other guests devour the glazed, glistening hunk o' pork, he (Monte) begged his hostess for the recipe. 'Buy the cheapest ham possible, glaze the hell out of it, and cook it for a long time' was her pithy, right-on response." With those Dorothy Parker-esque directions,  I knew what kind of ham I was making for dinner.

Of course, there were potatoes to accompany Monte's ham masterpiece. While I am a big fan of au gratin potatoes, I was in the mood for something less creamy with a little more bite. These mustard and rosemary potatoes were just the ticket— they're flavorful and develop a beautiful crust as they are roasting. I even found the Fine Cooking magazine from December 2000 in a pile of magazines I had in a box, complete with the original recipe and a piece of rosemary tucked between the wrinkled pages.

Mustard and Rosemary Roasted Potatoes(From Fine Cooking Magazine & Molly Stevens)

1/3 cup plus 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1/4 cup good olive oil
1 tbsp dry white vermouth or other dry white wine
1 tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped
1 tsp coarse salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds red-skinned potatoes, cut into 1 inch dice

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the mustard, olive oil, vermouth, garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper. Add the potatoes and toss to coat. Dump the potatoes onto a large rimmed baking sheet and spread them in a single layer. Roast, tossing with a spatula a few times, until the potatoes are crusty on the outside and tender throughout, 50 - 55 minutes. Serve immediately.

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Ted Makes Dinner

I remember the first dinner I made for Ted— chicken fajitas with the Lawry spice package, flour tortillas and shredded cheese. I was 19 years old and while I had eaten, walked through and emptied the dishwasher in my Mom's kitchen, I hadn't ever cooked a full on dinner. I was so happy when Ted walked in the apartment that evening so many years ago and said, 'it smells good in here'. Looking back, I'm pretty sure that's where it started for me— the realization that cooking is more than eating, it's about creating space for nurturing and loving the people in our lives (even new boyfriends).

That first fajita meal awakened my inner cookery maven but I still had a lot to learn. I wanted to stretch my fledgling culinary wings beyond fajitas and toasted tomatoes with provolone but didn't know where to start. I was working at Ki Clayton in Southdale and we carried a couple of cookbooks by Susan Branch, I purchased them one afternoon and started planning my first 'real' meal made entirely from scratch. As it turns out, it was the best place to start— the recipes were easy, nearly foolproof and Susan lived in Martha's Vineyard (I've always a thing for Cape Cod). I lost the original cookbooks somewhere along the way (too many moves using the famous 'throw everything in black garbage bags and hope for the best' method). I found them this summer at a used book store and it was so good to turn those pages again. Looking through the cookbooks, I traveled back to the first time I made pesto, green bean salad with basil dip, ribs and cherry tomatoes stuffed with bacon and cream cheese. Food is truly my conduit to the past and memories I thought I had forgotten.

Ted had a couple of signature dishes from Susan's cookbooks and this smoked salmon pasta was his pièce de résistance. I was not, and still am not, good at anything resembling mise en place. I prefer to cut, mince and measure as I go along my merry way making dinner, not the best method if you are sauteing anything. Thankfully, Ted is very good at the prep work and I tended to leave the recipes where you needed to have everything ready to go into the sauté pan in quick succession to him. He also makes a mean Kung Pao chicken but I'll leave that for another post.

We were casting about for dinner ideas last week and as I was scanning the bookshelf, Susan's cookbook, Heart Of The Home, jumped out at me. I knew exactly what to eat for dinner and Ted was game to tackle the prep and execution of one of our favorite pasta dishes from our early years in Lowertown. It was as good as I remembered— smoky fish, white wine, shallots and pine nuts. It was nice to sit in the kitchen with a glass of wine, chatting with Ted and watching him cook. We have changed and grown in ways we couldn't have foreseen as a young couple but sitting in our kitchen, I realized it's everything I had hoped for and more.

Pasta With Smoked Salmon And Peas(From Heart Of The Home By Susan Branch)

3/4 cup dry white wine
4 tbsp shallots, minced
1 1/4 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup cooked peas
3 tbsp fresh dill, snipped
1/3 pound smoked salmon, sliced
4 tbsp pine nuts, toasted
8 ounce narrow egg noodles (or whatever pasta you prefer)

Toast the pine nuts in a small skillet with a tablespoon of butter. Set aside on a paper towel to drain. Cook the peas and set aside.

Put the white wine and shallots together in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Allow the wine to reduce by about a tablespoon. Stir in cream; bring to a boil and simmer for 5 - 6 minutes. Cover the pan and remove from heat. Put the pasta into boiling water and cook until al dente, rinse in cool water and drain. Put the pasta into a serving dish. Bring the sauce back to a boil, remove from heat and add peas, dill, pine nuts and smoked salmon. Stir to combine and pour over pasta, toss to coat. Serve immediately.

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What's For Breakfast After The First Snowfall??

Popovers, of course. Okay, maybe not 'of course', there are lots of good options for breakfast on a snowy morning but we are on a popover kick around here. I've spent most of my life as a true popover failure— they flopped instead of popped. Sadie's good friend, Emma, comes from a family of popover masters and I even tried their recipe with zero success (Emma was very sweet and said some encouraging words as we ate our custardy and flat popunders). It all changed last weekend when I bought a new popover pan in at the Blue Heron Trading Company and we have popovers popping all over the place.

One of the blogs I follow, David Lebovitz, had a post about sugar crusted popovers— perfect for the morning after our first snowfall. I used the Meeker's recipe, buttered and sugared the popovers and had the most lovely morning watching the snow fall outside my kitchen window.

Meeker's Famous Popover Batter

Popover Batter 3 eggs
3 tbsp oil (I used melted butter)
1 1/2 cup milk (I used whole milk)
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 1/2 cup flour

Sugar Coating
2/3 cup white sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 cup melted butter

Softened butter, for greasing the pan

Preparation
Preheat oven to 425 degrees and butter the popover pan.

In a blender, combine eggs, oil, milk and salt. Turn on blender and slowly add flour. Continue blending until it takes on a heavy, smooth, consistency.

Fill each popover tine 3/4 full. Bake 20-25 min. on middle oven shelf. Resist temptation to open the oven and peek in. Popovers should be puffed and golden.

Remove from the oven, wait a few minutes until cool enough to handle, then remove the popovers from the pans and set them on a cooling rack.

Mix the sugar and cinnamon in a medium bowl. Thoroughly brush each popover all over with the 1/4 cup of melted butter, then dredge each puff generously in the sugar and cinnamon mixture to coat them completely. Let cool on the wire rack.

A Day Of Mindful Gratitude

I'm blessed to have a life I only dreamed of— full of people I hold dear, dogs who give me untold joy, trees who stand sentry in my yard, food that feeds my body and spirit and the natural world who reminds me to live with wonderment and gratitude every day. As I head towards the meal to end all meals tonight, I'm most looking forward to sitting in my Mom's kitchen with my wild and passionate family. There is nothing like being with people who have known you since the beginning and that's what I'm most thankful for today.

Mindful

Everyday
I see or hear
something
that more or less

kills me
with delight,
that leaves me
like a needle

in the haystack
of light.
It was what I was born for —
to look, to listen,

to lose myself
inside this soft world —
to instruct myself
over and over

in joy,
and acclamation.
Nor am I talking
about the exceptional,

the fearful, the dreadful,
the very extravagant —
but of the ordinary,
the common, the very drab,

the daily presentations.
Oh, good scholar,
I say to myself,
how can you help

but grow wise
with such teachings
as these —
the untrimmable light

of the world,
the ocean’s shine,
the prayers that are made
out of grass?

~ Mary Oliver

What Makes A Pie A Tart??

I have to admit, I looked up the difference between a pie and a tart. For some reason, the word tart always reminds me of Bernadette Peter's character in Blazing Saddles and I knew what made her different from a pie. It turns out, the difference has to do with the pan and where the crust is located. My dessert creation was a hybrid because I used a tart pan but the crust goes up the sides (like a pie). Regardless of its hybrid nature, it was a delicious dessert— not too sweet with a buttery crumb topping. I used a Pillsbury pie crust and it worked out brilliantly. Some day I'll tackle pastry dough, maybe sometime in 2015.

Apple, Strawberry & Sour Cherry Tart

4 Honeycrisp apples, peeled and roughly chopped
2 cups strawberries, sliced
3/4 cup sour cherries, roughly chopped
1 1/4 cup brown sugar
1 1/4 cup flour
1 tsp cinnamon
1/4 cup butter
1/2 tsp vanilla
1 Pillsbury pie crust

Preparation
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Roll out the pie dough and place in a buttered tart pan. Place the apples, strawberries and sour cherries in a medium bowl and toss with 1/4 cup flour, 1/4 cup sugar and 1 tsp cinnamon. Evenly scatter the apples, strawberries and cherries in the tart pan and set aside. In a medium bowl, combine 1 cup flour, 1 cup sugar, 1/2 tsp vanilla and 1/4 cup of butter. Mix thoroughly and place on top of the fruit in the tart pan. Place the tart pan on a sheet tray and bake for 1 hour or until the crust is golden brown and the filling is bubbly.

A Few Good Wines

'In Europe we thought of wine as something as healthy and normal as food and also as a great giver of happiness and well-being and delight. Drinking wine was not a snobbism nor a sign of sophistication nor a cult; it was as natural as eating and to me as necessary'. Ernest Hemingway A Moveable Feast

I really like red blends and I really, really like blends with Petite Sirah, Syrah and Zinfandel. I just ran across a great wine blog (Reverse Wine Snob) and read his recommendation for this wine. He was right on— it's a bold blend with beautiful flavors of  black cherries, blackberries and spice box with a subtle nose of mocha and nutmeg. It's a great value at 11.99 (I bought my bottles at Marketview Liquor).

A spectacular bottle of Pinot Noir always makes me happy and this bottle certainly put a smile on my face. It is definitely a splurge wine (I bought it at Bayfield Wine & Spirits) with a birthday gift certificate from Liz. It is about as close to a perfect California Pinot as you can get— lots of lush fruit, spice and earthiness. It has a beautiful acidity which balances the ripe fruit on the long and silky finish. Truly a special Pinot and one I hope to meet again.

Oh Kermit, let me count the ways I love you. When I was buying the wine for Good Thyme, Bill (my wine guy) gave me a book (Adventures on the Wine Route) to read about a wine importer from California who brought high quality, small producer wines to the United States. Not only was the book a pleasure to read, the wines he imports are a pleasure to drink. This is one of the first Kermit wines I bought for Good Thyme and it's still one of my favorites. This is a big, elegant wine with lots of dark fruit and spice flavor and has a lingering finish that will make you reach for another glass.

Another Kermit wine and another favorite. Marcel Lapierre made the most divine Morgon (a Cru Beaujolais) that I ever tasted. He passed away in 2010 and his son has taken over the winery— by the taste of things he's following in his father's footsteps. This is a young, light bodied Gamay with a heady nose of cedar, red cherry, earth and pepper. It's acidity is balanced by the wild strawberry, raspberry and prune flavors in your mouth. It's a truly refreshing wine— not too dear to drink on a Wednesday night but with enough structure and nuance to make me happy.

Okay, this is a seriously good wine. I have a thing for Washington wines and the Buty winery is one of my favorites. Every year, they make a limited production 'Beast' wine with the bits and pieces left over from their vineyards. It changes every year and 2009 was clearly a good year. This blend is Syrah, Cabernet and Malbec and it's a showstopper. The wine has aromas of vanilla and cedar followed by flavors of tart cherry, blackberry and licorice. Absolutely amazing.

Petite Sirah is typically used a blending grape but it's perfectly delightful on its own. Ironically, there is nothing petite about this wine— it's a big, gnarly, dark purple and deeply extracted wine. This wine needs to gather itself before you drink it, definitely let it sit in a decanter or open the bottle a couple of hours before you plan to drink it. It has plenty of dark, ripe fruit and roasted coffee flavors with firm tannins that would stand up nicely to a steak or roasted game. I bought this wine at Bayfield Wine & Spirits in Bayfield.

Another not so petite yet oh so lovely wine— this time it's a Petite Verdot from Argentina. This is one of the darkest purple wines I've seen for a while, it's almost black in the glass. There is some fruit in this wine but I'd say the predominant flavors are black pepper, spice, chocolate and fig. It had a remarkably soft, dense and velvety mouth feel and nicely integrated tannins. This wine definitely needs to be decanted in order to really shine, it's tight and kind of flat right out of the bottle. Bayfield Wine & Spirits carries this wine in Bayfield.

This is a great, easy drinking wine from a vineyard adjacent to the famous Chateauneuf du Pape appellation in Southern France. It's a blend of Merlot, Syrah and Grenache and it delivers on all fronts— aromas of cassis, spice and pipe tobacco with lush fruit flavors and soft tannins. The Rhone Report gave it a well deserved 90 points and I wholeheartedly agree with their assessment.

I need to learn to speak Italian— if only to correctly pronounce the lyrical names of some of my favorite wines. Who wouldn't like to have the words Valpolicella or Montepulciano roll off their tongue like a beautiful song? This wine is another blend— this time it's Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. It was aged in stainless steel and has a ton of bright, clean jammy fruit and spice flavors with a decent, but not overwhelming, acidity. This was another wine recommendation from The Reverse Wine Snob — he partnered Marketview Liquor in October and offered free shipping on his recommended wines. I am so glad I took a chance on this one, it's delightful.

Pumpkin Dog Biscuits For The Boys

I'll be the first to admit, Dougherty dogs have a pretty nice life. In fact, I doubt they are aware they're of the canine persuasion— they definitely prefer chairs at the table and riding shotgun (with the seat warmer on) to the floor or back seat. After my persimmon bread mishap, I decided homemade dog treats are the way to go— the target audience will always appreciate the effort and they are super easy to make. Since Thanksgiving is in a couple of days and pumpkin pie is too messy to feed to the dogs, I found a recipe for pumpkin dog biscuits. The boys were pleased.

Peanut Butter & Pumpkin Dog Treats from Allrecipes.com

7 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
6 eggs
1 1/2 cup canned pumpkin
1/3 cup peanut butter
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

Preparation Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Mix together the flour, eggs, pumpkin, peanut butter, salt and cinnamon in a bowl. Add water as needed to make the dough workable, but the dough should be dry and stiff. Roll the dough out to about a 1/2 inch thickness and cut into 1/2 inch pieces.

Place on a parchment lined baking sheet and bake for about 40 minutes, or until hard.

Tomatillo & Chicken Chili

Chili is a family favorite and makes an appearance at dinner a couple of times a month. What's not to love about a steaming bowl of meat in a spicy sauce topped with sour cream and cheese? There was a bunch of tomatillos on the counter, chicken thighs in the freezer and my favorite Carmelina tomatoes on the shelf— it looked like chili was on the docket for dinner. I always make a double batch so I can freeze the leftovers— having food in the freezer gives me a sense of security, kind of like a dinner safety net.

Chicken And Tomatillo Chili

12 chicken thighs, boneless and skinless 3 sweet red peppers, chopped 2 red onions, chopped 2 serranos, seeded and minced 36 tomatillos, halved 4 tbsp cumin 4 tbsp ancho chile powder 3 tbsp Tajin Classico seasoning 2 tbsp oregano 2 tbsp chili powder 1 tbsp sugar 2 tbsp oil 2 tsp kosher salt 2 (28 ounce) cans of chopped tomatoes in purée 3 (15 ounce) cans of butter beans (or any kind of bean you prefer) 1/2 cup cilantro, chopped

Preparation In a large sauté pan over medium high heat, add oil and onions—sauté for 10 minutes or until onions are softened and golden brown. Add peppers, cumin, ancho chile powder, oregano, Tajin, chili powder and salt and saute for an additional 5 minutes or until the spices are fragrant.

Cube the chicken thighs into 1 inch pieces and set aside.

In a medium stockpot or crockpot, add the chicken, sautéed vegetables, tomatillos and tomatoes and purée. Cook on low for 6 to 8 hours, if using a crockpot, or simmer, uncovered, on the stove top for 45 minutes. Add the beans and cilantro and cook for an additional 30 minutes. Serve immediately.

What's Easier Than A Roasted Chicken??

I think roasted chicken was the first convenience food— it's not fast but about as hands off as you can get for a decent dinner. Plus, it is my fall back meal when I am fresh out of creative dinner options. Liz was over and mentioned her Mom used to stuff roasted chickens with apples— a twist on chicken I couldn't wait to try. As I was rooting through the fruit in my fridge, I noticed there were pears and grapes that were perilously close to their expiration date— if an apple was a good idea, pears and grapes were a brilliant idea.

I roast two chickens at a time for a couple of reasons— there are hungry people in my family and any leftovers can be re-purposed as a sandwich or salad for lunch. I guess that leads me to another question, 'what is better than leftover roasted chicken for lunch'? I'll save my answer for another post, I need to think about it.

Roasted Chicken With Roots & Fruits

2  4 - 5 pound whole chickens, preferably free range 2 apples, cut in half 2 pears, cut in half 1 1/2 cups red grapes 5 carrots, peeled and sliced 3 parsnips, peeled and sliced 2 sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed 2 onions, peeled and sliced 4 tbsp olive oil salt and pepper

Preparation Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Salt and pepper the interior of the chicken and place on baking sheet, lined with parchment. Place one apple, pear and a couple slices of onion in the cavity of each bird. Drizzle olive oil over each bird, rub to spread it evenly and liberally apply salt and pepper all over the chicken. Place the remaining onion, parsnips, sweet potatoes, grapes and carrots around the chickens. Toss with the remaining olive oil, season with salt and pepper and place in oven. Roast for about 1 1/2 hours or until the juices run clear when you cut between a leg and a thigh. Allow the chicken to rest for about 10 minutes and then move to a platter. Arrange the vegetables around the chickens, pour any accumulated pan juices over the vegetables, carve and serve.

Seriously Good Italian Meatballs & Marinara

As I mentioned in the Indian meatball post, this is the winter I seriously intend to master the meatball— in all forms and cuisines. These Italian meatballs are good and super easy to make— important criteria for weekday meals. Homemade pasta sauce is surprisingly easy as well. It takes more time than opening a jar but is definitely worth the extra effort (and it freezes well). I stopped buying prepared pasta sauce about a year ago, after I found these canned tomatoes (link here). The quality of the tomatoes make a huge difference because my sauce is simple and the tomatoes are featured front and center. I have two other Italian meatball recipes in the hopper— they are not quite as easy but since I am on a mission to master the meatball, due diligence is important.

Seriously Good Meatballs & Marinara

Meatballs 1 pound ground beef (don't use extra lean, a little fat is good) 1 pound ground pork 1 cup fresh bread crumbs 1/2 cup Parmesan, finely grated 1/2 cup Romano or Pecorino, finely grated 1/3 cup milk 1 tbsp fresh basil, chopped 1 tbsp fresh oregano, chopped 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 medium red onion, chopped 2 eggs 3 tbsp olive oil

In a medium bowl, combine the breadcrumbs and milk and let sit for 10 minutes.

In a large bowl, mix all ingredients except olive oil by hand, using a light touch. Take a portion of meat in hand, and roll between palms to form a ball that is firmly packed but not compressed. It's important to handle the meat as gently as possible, too much processing will result in tough meatballs. Repeat, making each meatball about 2 inches in diameter.

In a large, heavy pot heat olive oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add meatballs in batches. Do not crowd. Brown well on bottoms before turning, or meatballs will break apart. Continue cooking until browned all over. Remove meatballs to a plate as each batch is finished. Let meatballs cool slightly; add to sauce or cover and refrigerate until needed. Makes about 16 meatballs.

Marinara 2 28-ounce cans whole peeled  tomatoes in juice, drained, juice reserved, tomatoes finely chopped 1/2 cup butter 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 medium red onion, chopped 3 tbsp fresh basil, chopped 1/2 tsp (or more to taste) kosher salt 1/4 tsp black pepper

Preparation Combine tomatoes with juice, butter, garlic, onions, salt and pepper in large wide pot. Bring to simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat; simmer uncovered 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add basil and season sauce with more salt and freshly ground black pepper.

An October Afternoon At The Springs

Roald Dahl said, 'And above all, watch with glittering eyes the whole world around you because the greatest secrets are always hidden in the most unlikely places. Those who don't believe in magic will never find it'. Good advice if you ask me. I am a firm believer in magic— in the water, among the trees, in the stalwart devotion of my husband, the stars shining in the night sky, in the love for my children, the flash of a bird's wing, the exuberance of my dogs and the companionship of friends. I truly believe the whole world is revealed to us in the most minute details; our photo safaris are my way to uncover those great secrets.

I was across the stream looking at a particularly curvy branch, turned around and snapped this photo of Charlie. His mind operates at a break neck speed and I rarely catch him just sitting quietly. His reverie was broken by the arrival of George and Viv— they were in the throes of canine joy and bounded onto the scene with serious verve. George was pretty happy to have a big dog to play with, the Cavaliers are not terribly interested in romping through the woods— it messes up their perfectly coiffed coats.

The colors were more muted and monochromatic on this trip to the springs. The energy was quiet and contemplative; it almost seemed like the trees knew colder and darker days are ahead.

Everytime I go out with my camera, I ask the trees to reveal themselves, to give me a glimpse into who they are. Sometimes it is just a beautifully symmetrical whorl in the bark or roots wrapped in an embrace. Since Halloween was around the corner, it was a jack o lantern face in a piece of birch bark— it's good to know the trees have a sense of humor. The greatest secrets are indeed hidden in the most unlikely places.

Another Use For Red Wine

Not that I really needed another use for red wine, my first choice (in a nice big glass) was working out brilliantly. What I really needed was good red wine vinegar. When we lived in Minneapolis, Bill's Imported Foods was my spot for all sorts of kitchen supplies— olive oil, French feta, Moroccan olives, cornichons and wine vinegar. Since Bill's is about 200 miles away and my trips back to Minneapolis are infrequent, I needed another plan of attack.

I googled 'homemade red wine vinegar', bought a mother (from here), bought a crock (from here), grabbed a nice bottle of wine and set out on my latest culinary journey. It's going to be a long one, at least 10 weeks according to Paula Wolfert, but I have a feeling it's going to be well worth the wait. Trust me, you'll be the first to know if I made the red wine vinegar of my dreams or something that smells like 'furniture polish'. Lord knows I have a steady supply of red wine to keep my mother happy and well fed. If it works out, I will have fresh wine vinegar forever— how cool is that??

Making Red Wine Vinegar By Paula Wolfert (From Food and Wine Magazine October 2006)

Buy a 1-gallon earthenware crock with a top-quality wood or plastic spigot. Add water to the crock to check for leaks; drain the crock.

Buy an 8-ounce bottle of commercial mother from a wine and beer-making supply shop (or get it from a friend).

Add 2 cups of good red wine and 1 cup of filtered water to the crock (or enough to at least cover the spigot), then add the mother. Cover the crock with a double layer of cheesecloth and fasten with a rubber band (or just use the lid with the hole in it).

Set the crock in a warm (70° to 90°), dark spot and let stand for 1 1/2 weeks.

Add red wine to the crock in three 2 1/2-cup installments over the next 1 1/2 weeks; the crock should then be two-thirds full. Once a thin veil has formed on the surface, add the wine through the tube of the bulb baster tucked under the edge of the veil. Let the crock stand for a total of 10 weeks. Check periodically: If your vinegar ever begins to smell like furniture polish, discard it, wash the crock and start over.

Bottle the vinegar when it smells sharp and crisp: Strain it into sterile bottles through a plastic funnel lines with a paper coffee filter. (If you plan to start the process over, leave 2 cups vinegar in the crock and just add wine and water.) The vinegar will mellow in the bottle and improve with age, but if you plan to keep it more than 4 months, pasteurize it: Heat the vinegar to 155° in a stainless steel saucepan and hold it there for 30 minutes. Store the vinegar in sterilized, well-sealed bottles in a cool, dry place. Use homemade vinegar for dressings and sauces and as a seasoning; never use it for pickling

Goat Cheese Pasta With All Sorts of Good Stuff

I like to cook but there are days when I just want to eat dinner, watch a movie and call it a day. That's where pasta and a fridge full of delicious but disjointed ingredients comes in handy— dinner in less than 30 minutes and two dirty pans.

Goat Cheese Pasta With All Sorts Of Good Stuff

1 pound pasta 6 - 8 ounces goat cheese (I used Sassy Nanny Lake Effect) 3 boneless, skinless chicken breasts 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced 1 red pepper, sliced 1 package of mushrooms, quartered 6 - 8 slices bacon 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 tbsp olive oil 1/4 cup white wine

Preparation Cook pasta. Drain, reserve 2 cups of pasta water (keep warm) and return pasta to pot. Add a little olive oil or butter to pasta to keep it from sticking.

Fry the bacon in a large sauté pan until crisp. Remove the bacon and reserve 2 tbsp of bacon fat. Add the onion, red pepper and mushroom to the pan and sauté over medium heat until vegetables softened and onions are starting to caramelize (about 8 - 10 minutes). Add the garlic and wine and continue to cook until most of the wine has reduced by half.

While the vegetables are cooking, heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a sauté pan over medium high heat. Add whole chicken breasts and cook thoroughly. Slice and keep warm.

Place the pasta and goat cheese in a large bowl, add enough warm pasta water to make a creamy sauce, add vegetables, sliced chicken breasts and crumbled bacon, toss and serve immediately.

Totally unrelated to goat cheese pasta but I looked down while I was preparing dinner and saw the dogs totally cashed out in a row. 'Falling back' from daylight saving time has been a hard transition for my little men.

A View From The Top

I celebrated a birthday in October and we walked up to the top of Mount Ashwabay for a photo safari. It was the perfect way to usher in my 43rd year— a bird's-eye of the lake, the last russet and gold leaves, a brilliantly blue sky and of course the kids and dog (George was the only dog invited). Sadie, George and I opted for a kinder, gentler stroll up Swiss Miss but Meg, Charlie and Caroline went big and decided to head straight up the Drop. We met at the top, took a hiatus to catch our breath and take in the view. It's truly one of the best views up here and well worth the climb.

As I sit here at the kitchen table (three weeks after this beautiful afternoon), listening to the election results roll in, I can't begin to imagine the spectrum of emotions each candidate must be feeling. After months of campaigning, it comes down to the individual votes of millions of people throughout the country. I was the 75th voter in Bayfield this morning and while I'm far removed from the spotlight of Cuyahoga County in Ohio, my vote counts. Of course, I would love to wake up tomorrow with President Obama in office for another four years but it's out of my hands and into the collective hands of everyone who voted today.

One of the gifts of aging is my deep understanding of the power and sense of peace that comes with surrender and fully living in the present moment. As I move into my 43rd year (and away from a divisive and often ugly campaign season), I intend to embrace what's surrounding me every day— my raucous, loving family and friends, free thinking dogs, fantastic dinners and wine, good books and great stories, Lake Superior's water and beaches and the trees who watch over me. Lord knows, it'll be a challenge but it's enough.

You Reading This, Be Ready

Starting here, what do you want to remember? How sunlight creeps along a shining floor? What scent of old wood hovers, what softened sound from the outside fills the air?

Will you ever bring a better gift for the world than the breathing respect that you carry wherever you go right now? Are you waiting for time to show you some better thoughts?

When you turn around, starting here, lift this new glimpse that you found; carry into evening all that you want from this day. This interval you spent reading or hearing this, keep it for life —

What can anyone give you greater than now, starting here, right in this room, when you turn around?

William Stafford

Pork Loin Stuffed With Fruit & Herbs

I'm starting to see a trend in my dinner choices— a stuffing trend. There's something about shorter days, falling leaves and fires in the hearth that makes me want to start chopping all sorts of good things, stuffing and tying up delicious packages of beef, squashes and pork. While I miss the fresh vegetables and herbs of summer, I am more of a fall/winter kind of cook— braises, roasted root vegetables and soups are my kind of thing.

As I was busy tying my roast the wrong way (see the right way here), Julie took the camera and captured a few behind the scenes photos. I have a rule (not particularly well enforced) that kids, dogs and husbands need to stay on  the other side of the island, away from the stove and me. I tend to get distracted with talking, drinking wine or making dinner and don't need to add watching out so I don't burn, trip over or hit with a pan any beloved members of my family. As you can see, no one listened and I have to admit, I love having the boys (canine and human) in my space. As for tying the roast, I have terrible eye/hand coordination and hitch knots (or any kind of knot except the one I so artfully used on this roast) are way above my skill level.

Center cut pork loin is a lean piece of meat and benefits greatly from a flavorful brine and some juice, broth or wine in the roasting pan while it's cooking. I used a brine with apples, maple syrup and apple cider because it complemented the stuffing beautifully. It was a good start to a fall and winter's worth of stuffed meals.

Pork Loin Stuffed With Fruit, Herbs & Onion

Brine 6 cups water 2 cups apple cider 2/3 cups kosher salt 1/2 cup maple syrup 3 apples, cut in half 2 onions, peeled and quartered 6 garlic cloves 3 branches of fresh rosemary 6 - 8 sprigs of fresh thyme 2 bay leaves 3 tbsp fennel seeds 2 tsp whole black peppercorns

Pork Loin and Stuffing Two 3 -4 pound center cut pork loin, butterflied 1 cup apple cider 1/2 cup red wine 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp butter 2 yellow onions, chopped 2 stalks of celery, chopped 3/4 cup dried plums, chopped 1 pear, peeled and chopped 1 apple, peeled and chopped (I used Honeycrisp) 2 branches of fresh rosemary 4 - 6 sprigs of fresh thyme salt and pepper to taste

Prepare Brine In a large stockpot, add the water and salt. Heat over high heat until the salt has completely melted and cool completely. Add the remaining ingredients to a large container, mix to combine and add the pork loins. Cover and refrigerate for no more than 12 hours.

Prepare Pork Loin and Stuffing Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, add the wine and dried plums, turn off the heat and let sit for about 10 minutes. In a large sauté pan, melt butter over medium high heat, add onions and celery and sauté until softened and onions are golden (about 10 minutes). Add apples, pears, plums and wine. Saute for 5 minutes over medium heat and set aside.

Heat a large sauté pan with the olive oil over medium high heat. Add the pork loin (seasoned with salt and pepper) and brown on all sides. Put the stuffing down the middle of the butterflied and browned pork loin and lay down one branch of rosemary and 2 - 3 sprigs of thyme over the stuffing. Tie the roast, taking care to keep all the stuffing inside (it;s okay of a little falls out). Place in a roasting pan, add the apple cider and place in oven. Baste the roast every 15 minutes with the pan juices 30 minutes after you place it in the oven. Roast for about an hour or until the roast reaches an internal temperature of 145 degrees. Remove from over, cover with foil and let rest for 10 minutes. Slice and serve immediately.

Chipotle & Blueberry Chutney

One of my favorite flavor combinations is a little sweet and a little heat. I am particularly fond of chipotle peppers en adobo—the smoky notes hit your palate first and finishes with a mellow heat. Back in the good old days of summer, when there were pounds and pounds of blueberries in the freezer, I thought blueberries and chipotles would make a sweet chutney with a little smoky heat. Since I was feeling like quite the capable little canner— I steamed full speed ahead with my blueberry chipotle chutney. It turned just as I hoped— layers of flavor with a slow burn on the finish.

Chipotle & Blueberry Chutney

5 cups fresh blueberries 2 medium apples, peeled and chopped 1 medium red onion, chopped 1 tbsp ginger, peeled and minced 1 tbsp garlic, minced 3 tbsp orange rind, minced 1 tbsp yellow or brown mustard seeds 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar 1/2 cup honey (more to taste depending on how sweet the blueberries are) 2 - 3 chipotle chiles in adobo, chopped 1/2 tsp kosher salt

Add all ingredients to a large pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 – 45 minutes, until mixture is thick. At this point, you can cool completely and it will keep in the refrigerator, covered, for up to a week.

You can also ladle hot chutney into hot sterilized jars, leaving 1/4-inch head space. Wipe rims of the jars, cover with lids, and screw bands on until just barely tight. Place jars on rack in pot and cover completely with water. Cover pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 10 minutes. Turn off heat, uncover pot, and allow jars to rest in water for five minutes. Remove jars from pot and allow them to rest undisturbed on countertop for six hours or overnight.

Mary Oliver's Wise Words

When Death Comes

 

When death comes
like the hungry bear in autumn;
when death comes and takes all the bright coins from his purse 

to buy me, and snaps the purse shut;
when death comes
like the measle-pox

when death comes
like an iceberg between the shoulder blades,

I want to step through the door full of curiosity, wondering:
what is it going to be like, that cottage of darkness?

And therefore I look upon everything
as a brotherhood and a sisterhood,
and I look upon time as no more than an idea,
and I consider eternity as another possibility,

and I think of each life as a flower, as common
as a field daisy, and as singular,

and each name a comfortable music in the mouth,
tending, as all music does, toward silence,

and each body a lion of courage, and something
precious to the earth.

When it's over, I want to say all my life
I was a bride married to amazement.
I was the bridegroom, taking the world into my arms.

When it's over, I don't want to wonder
if I have made of my life something particular, and real.

I don't want to find myself sighing and frightened,
or full of argument.

I don't want to end up simply having visited this world.

~ Mary Oliver

A Windy October Day In Bayfield

We had a very blustery day in the beginning of October. I spent the morning asking the pines that surround my house to hold on and stand tall. Every time a branch hit the roof, I jumped 2 feet in the air (does that count as exercise)?? Even with my falling tree branch anxiety, I love a windy day in the fall. The pines drop all their golden pine needles and blanket the ground in the most beautiful color of copper. It smells divine when the sun hits them and they release their piney fragrance.

I picked up the kids from school and Sadie suggested we head down to City Dock to capture some windy day photos. The combination of bright sunlight, richly colored leaves and a brilliantly blue lake made for a batch of beautiful pictures.

Curried Squash Soup With Caramelized Pears, Apples & Onions

Remember that big, gorgeous hubbard squash I stuffed? Huge, previously stuffed, hubbards result in a lot of leftovers and I was a little unsure what to do with 20 cups of cooked squash. Soup seemed like a reasonable solution. I've eaten squash soup before and have always found it way too sweet for my tastes. I wanted a savory version with just a hint of sweetness. Curry immediately came to mind and I set out to make a curried squash soup with caramelized apples, pears and onions. This recipe makes a ton of soup (I had a ton of squash to deal with) but you can cut in half or freeze it for a quick and easy dinner down the road.

Curried Winter Squash Soup with Caramelized Apples, Pears & Onions

20 cups cooked winter squash 18 cups chicken or vegetable broth 3 apples, peeled and sliced 3 pears, peeled and sliced 4 onions, peeled and sliced 3 garlic cloves, minced 1/2 cup apple cider 3 cups coconut milk 5 tbsp butter 2 tbsp olive oil 1/4 cup curry powder (more to taste) salt and pepper to taste

Prepare Soup Heat 2 tbsp of butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat, add apples, pears and apple cider. Reduce heat to medium low and sauté until the apples and pears are soft and caramelized. Heat 3 tbsp of butter in another large sauté pan over medium heat and add 3 onions. Reduce heat to medium low and sauté until the onions are caramelized. Set the cooked apples, pears and onions aside.

In a medium sauté pan, add 2 tbsp of olive oil, the remaining onion, garlic and curry powder. Heat over medium heat until onions are softened and the curry powder is fragrant. Be very careful not to burn the curry powder, stir it frequently. Add the curried onions and garlic to the apple, pear and onion mixture.

Heat the cooked squash and chicken broth in a large stockpot. Once it's heated thoroughly, add the onions, apples and pears and simmer for 30 minutes. Very carefully add the soup in batches to a food processor or blender and process until smooth. Add the pureed soup to stockpot and add coconut milk. Season with salt, pepper and additional curry powder (if needed), heat thoroughly and serve.

I served my soup gratinéed style with Gruyère cheese and thinly sliced pieces of garlic buttered crostini.